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Any great crack climbs at Cochise?

Original Post
Evan Belknap · · Placitas, NM · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 65

Going to Cochise to chase the sun. More of a splitter climber—obviously going to have to get over it for the most part—but what are my best options?

Ryan Kelly · · work. · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 2,960

I had no idea there was a genre of climbers known as Splitter Climbers.

Colonel Mustard · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Sep 2005 · Points: 1,241
Ryan Kelly wrote:I had no idea there was a genre of climbers known as Splitter Climbers.
That's not a very splitter observation on your part.

The good news is that the slab climbing at Cochise is pretty splitter. Also, there are splitters there too.
Charles Vernon · · Colorado megalopolis · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 2,655

There's a number of good crack climbs.

Abracadaver is the must-do. It gets all day shade, but can be done in winter with 2 pairs of long johns, 3 down jackets apiece, and several boxes of handwarmers. No but really it's cold but doable on a warmer day in winter and worth the additional suffering if you're coming from out of town.

Some others:
Beeline (all day sun)
Forest Lawn (morning sun)
Days of Future Passed (sun mid morning on)
Cragaholic's Dream (afternoon sun)
Tombstone Crack (all day shade)
Unknown, Left of Ewephoria (Sheepshead)(sun late morning on)
Unknown, Right of Stampede (Sheepshead)(all day sun)

I'm sure there are plenty that I'm either forgetting, unaware of, or that no one has ever climbed.

Ryan Kelly · · work. · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 2,960
Old Custer wrote: That's not a very splitter observation on your part.
I have pondered this for the last 21 minutes and have come to the conclusion that Splitter Climbers are what's wrong with climbing.
Wyatt Payne · · Littleton CO · Joined Apr 2005 · Points: 495

If you can track it down go climb Cragaholics Dream. If you don't mind getting your off-width and freeze on then you need to do Abracadaver. Both of these are outstanding multi pitch Trad routes. Each travels through prominent crack systems. While you are there you gotta climb some slab. If you don't get on at least one slab climb there you are only going to get the bush league Cochise experience. I'm much more of a crack climber, but the slab climbing there is phenomenal. Have fun.

thomas ellis · · abq · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 2,615

Why is it as of late many regional questions have been posted here rather than inside their regional areas. is the site layout confusing for some? it seems obvious.....

Ben Beard · · Superior, AZ · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 215
thomas ellis wrote:Why is it as of late many regional questions have been posted here rather than inside their regional areas. is the site layout confusing for some? it seems obvious.....
there's a forum for your post
"Discuss MountainProject.com forum"
1Eric Rhicard · · Tucson · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 10,101

Touche Ben! You should have known better Thomas. Might be he wanted more input than that of jaded locals.

Wyatt Payne · · Littleton CO · Joined Apr 2005 · Points: 495

He might have just wanted some information and figured putting it out to a larger knowledge base would produce results quickly enough to be useful. The trouble is that there are very few real experts in any given area and ferreting out the information that you need to be successful within a few days is tough.

On that note if our Albuquerque representative has some info on climbing the Shield I would like to get the beta on best season, approach, and other logistics. I've been successful in the Sandias so far but some local knowledge on climbing the Shield in particular would be a huge help. Thanks

Jamie Henrichsen · · Lake Morena, CA · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 60
Ryan Kelly wrote: I have pondered this for the last 21 minutes and have come to the conclusion that Splitter Climbers are what's wrong with climbing.
I'm not sure whether I like you or hate you right now. One more beer and I'll know for sure.
thomas ellis · · abq · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 2,615

Wayne, well said and point taken. I have only climbed a handful of routes in the sandias as I only spend the winter here and tend to concentrate my efforts on bouldering. I would suggest sending a pm to either William Penner or John kear. Both of which are very knowladgable and friendly. Mick is about to release a new sandia guidebook. Goodluck.
To Eric, I figured since the AZ, NM thread has stuff on Cochise this post would have served better outside of "general".

Colonel Mustard · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Sep 2005 · Points: 1,241
thomas ellis wrote:Wayne, well said and point taken. I have only climbed a handful of routes in the sandias as I only spend the winter here and tend to concentrate my efforts on bouldering. I would suggest sending a pm to either William Penner or John kear. Both of which are very knowladgable and friendly. Mick is about to release a new sandia guidebook. Goodluck. To Eric, I figured since the AZ, NM thread has stuff on Cochise this post would have served better outside of "general".
"Wyatt Payne" --> "W----" + "-ayne" = Wayne?
Clint Helander · · Anchorage, AK · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 612

I can attest to the unknown climb left of peacemaker on sheepshead. We were there several weeks ago and we climbed five routes on SH. I mostly enjoy crack/trad climbing and really enjoyed Absinthe of Mallet, Unknown left of Peacemaker and Unknown right of Ewephoria. There aren't really any splitters on Sheepshead that I noticed. Mostly it's a few gear placements between bolts.

If you're there, I highly suggest the unknown left of PM.

Enjoy.

Evan Belknap · · Placitas, NM · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 65

thanks yall.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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