2011 Utah Ice Conditions thread

Went up Roberts Horn east face ice the morning of 12/3/11 didnt top out proper, just clankerd up the first 500ft of ice. The lower ice is formed better then i have seen in years but still always heads up. In fact, a well placed screw saved a life the night before on the first pitch, so i would guess the screws are good!

On 12/4/11 we scratched to the top of the 5th pitch on the stairway via Contrivance. Classic early season fun. Both rap/belay anchors atop the 5th are covered over with spray ice from those high winds so save some screws or start chipn away for the belay. I didn't have any luck. You can still get off by pulling your belay and traversing over to the far right fixed anchors.

GWI 12.5.11

p.1

p.2

p.4

Fun!

Anyone live up north and have any idea whether Willard Canyon Falls is in?

The first pitch of GWI looks sketchy!! Glad that you thought it was fun :)

Shiho will you climb with me when the ice is in?

/

Well, I’ve searched “The Web” and this seems to be the place for Utah ice reports and comradery. Not bad, but would be nice to see a site like neclimbs.com/ used for New Hampshire ice climbing. A bit more 'around the area' coverage. But then that kind of site does take a lot of maintenance.
Anyway, I’m new to the forum, so let me introduce myself a bit. I live northern Virginia and work in DC. I’m old, 57, and started climbing late in life, rock then ice, about 15 years ago. I own a cabin out on Strawberry reservoir (2.5 yrs now), because I realized I was spending much time in the SLC area, skiing and climbing rock, north to SoR mainly. Thought I was retiring there last year when I finished construction. That didn’t happen. I’m blaming that on the “Other Half”. I visit now 2-3 times a year.
So, I did manage to play around at the bottom of Stairway to Heaven last year a couple days last season. The hike up taxed my ground zero lungs, but it was great. I would like to do some of the other pitches there, and some of the climbs around the corner, and else where. I’m back in the area between 6 and 14 January. Hopefully, the ice is in and conditions are good. I’m heading to New Hampshire to a friend’s place first to do some of that sweet NE ice, so hopefully I’ll remember how to climb and get my lead head back, before arriving in Utah. If anyone has some time during my trip dates, and would like to hook up and lead me around, let me know. I may not be climbing hard with my bum rotator cuff (bouldering) injury, but should be able to get up at least 3s & 4s…

Home away from home!

markmaguire wrote:Shiho will you climb with me when the ice is in? /

Of course, I'll climb with you. Why are you talking to me on mp.com when you can just give me a call. Anyhow, I went out to Provo this past Sunday and it was fine like everyone else was saying. I just thought that the 1st pitch of GWI seems little spicy for my taste. Ya, let's get out.

RonB wrote:Not bad, but would be nice to see a site like neclimbs.com/ used for New Hampshire ice climbing.

ya, you guys have neice.com as well. We have utahclimbers.com if you want to join the cult. Be careful, though. People can be vicious there.

loving this cold snap

mile 20

think cold

fun

Shiho wrote: Be careful, though. People can be vicious there.

Thanks, sounds like my kinda people. I've been barked at by some big egos over the years. I've got thick skin...and a nasty bite...

Matt Wolski wrote:

Hi Matt. Are these shots from up 150 in the Uintas? I was up that way climbing this last summer and saw a lot of drips. Looks like the area...

Photo Beta from Stewart falls provo canyon Dec 7 2011

Stewart falls WI5 provo canyon

Dan on the sharp end Stewart falls

Willard Canyon Falls

skiing sucks? nothing more dangerous than boredom. Mountain Hardware: send free stuff to me.

went from plastic to brittle

Willard Canyon Falls

crux bulge. frozen camera lense.

It's in.

Right on! I'm glad everyone is sharing beta and shots.

Climbed Miller's Thriller this AM after seeing Mark's photos. Here are some more:

Kirk on the way out with the first pitch visible.

First pitch after the small hump people often walk around.

Kirk on rappel

The crux pitch was a little thin, but actually in pretty easy climbing shape. Lots of ledges.

We rapped off bolts to the climbers right atop the first pitch. A second rope would have got us to the ground easily, but we made do with a v-thread when it didn't reach.

Here is the Fang. It appears to be forming quickly.
The Fang

Finger of Fate was also looking good. Probably a little thin, but forming rapidly.

heads up for this guy! stole a bunch of ice gear

I'll be posting this elsewhere, but just wanted to mention that I found a valuable bit of climbing equipment at the base of the Great White Icicle yesterday evening. Appeared to have been there a while. Call me to identify and describe. 801.910.5957

want to head out to joes valley for some ice this weekend, has anyone been up there recently and would be willing to share some recent conditions?

Thad

Thad,
Mary's lake has more ice then I have seen in years and is still accessible with a 4 wheel drive. I climbed over at slide lake 2 weeks ago and was able to drive further then I have in the past. Several 1000 ft climbs in over there 3-4s V-threads in a couple of them all the way down. A week ago highway to heaven and CCC were in and growing in the main area. We drove up to the Donnercicle and it was forming nicely but not in yet. I have not been over to Huntington yet but my guess there is stuff in over there. We have not had any snow for awhile down there so access is good.

Sunny-D
thanks for the great info man, maybe see you out there this sunday.
Thad

found a pair o gloves in the stairway gully today. I handed them off to Mountain Works (climbing shop in provo). If you can describe em they are yours.

does anyone know any beta on the mixed or "bolts" on the route to the left of the 2nd pitch stairway-150ft? I put up a variation on wed that goes up n right of the little roof @ the bottom. I couldnt find any anchors up top. Guess they could be covered by ice. dunno. If someone hasnt put in rock anchors, i may put some in for convenience so you can lower off and clean.

went up soft and juicy on wed mornin. was pretty....yup...soft n juicy! The top of the last pillar was back melted and not attached and now its been warmer @ nite. Hasnt fallen but you may want to wait for cooler nite temps to make the march up.