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Routes in Gin & Tectonics
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Alien's Head, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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ArcWidth, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Gin and Tectonics T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Head Stack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Nightwalker T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C1+ |
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Peccadillo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Squiggly Line, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Triple Abyss T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Two Plumb T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad |
| FA: | Ruckman and Olson, 1988 |
| Page Views: | 4,403 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Brian Milhaupt on Feb 28, 2002 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Sheep Aware
Details
Long canyon serves as important habitat for Utah's only endemic herd of Desert Bighorn Sheep. Please be respectful of wild sheep and other wildlife by maintaining a quiet atmosphere and keeping at least 100 meters from animals. Desert Bighorn Sheep are especially sensitive to disturbance between April 1st - June 15th when they are raising their young. Consider limiting your disturbance during this time period by climbing in other areas. You may notice water catchment systems in strategic locations to provide water for wildlife in Long canyon. One of these exists near the trail to Maverick Buttress.
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Park near the last campsite on the right. Shortly after this site there is a sign, "No camping beyond this point". Look up right for the most obvious approach where the talus breaks the lower cliffline. Once above the lower cliffline, hike left along the faint trail at the base of the rock for approximately 100 yards, looking for the first hand sized crack with flakes that jut left nearly 3/4 up the route. There is a plaque at the base. This is a desert classic, or should be. I felt like I encountered just about everything a desert crack has to offer; thin parts, steep parts, long sheer jamming, crazy flakes, and offwidthing. These two pitches could easily be combined into one spectacular 195' pitch. Pitch 1 5.10 hands, 45'. Pitch 2 is wide hands for 100', followed by flakes with good pro in the crack behind them. After the flakes is a thin bulge leading to a Crack of Fear like offwidth that will make you contemplate jumping for the anchors. Watch for a loose block just before the flakes. Two rope decent.
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