hallucinogen wall ?

anyone know if there are fixed anchors all the way down the route now? to rap the route for inspection.

Lame.
Ground Up.

All of the upper pitches have bolted anchors, but it would pretty much impossible to rap to them without tons of down aiding due to the traversing, and the many roofs at the top of the wall. The lower pitches have rap anchors(tat no bolts). The big pendulum would also be impossible to reverse. I have heard that there is a rap route straight down from fantasy island.

The question is why do you want to preview it? If you are into the route preview it on lead. The topo gives most of the beta you will need. I would make sure to bring some heads. This past spring many of the head where in bad shape. Nothing like watching peg dust fall from the fixed heads while your standing on it.

Be happy to give you beta if you want, but my advice is to forget about previewing the route.

The reason was simply for something fun to do when I don't have a partner and i live close, there almost every weekend. And to see about the free moves and what they look like. And wondered in general since it is a popular doable route now not to mention a another free route for the canyon. Thats all.

Ogden and Nelson rapped in when they were working on it. I am sure there is a way. I would guess you could make your own anchors with gear as you go down.As I am sure you are just looking for freeing preview you are only worried about the upper pitches anyway. I don't think it wanders enough to dissuade you. AS for the Pendi, you can just rap past it as it is just a jog to the left and then back again. Have fun out there!

Hey Jay, the guy from CO that freed it recently is named Joe Mills. He's probably on Facebook. If you track him down, let me know, I'd love to chat with him about the route, too. Also, Hayden Kennedy was working with the Euro guys that freed it last year (or this summer?), and I am pretty sure they worked it a bit on fixed lines so maybe get in touch with HK. I have his number, txt if you want it.

I am planning on working this route this spring. I was going to rap in from the top and work the upper crux, thin lead up and work the route from the ground up. The topo gives just about all the infomation one needs. I did this route for the first time last spring and it looks amazing as a free route as well as an aid route.

Joe rapped in and worked it solo on a mini traxion

That's what I figured Jason. I am also from Michigan. Jamie (with the dreads) was telling me about u because I was looking into doing an updated and good Indy Pass guide book. I checked your site. Just busy right now though.

Been looking for a partner for this route for some time now.

Jay - let's talk sometime, maybe get out and do some pitches together

Hey Jay,
Make sure you check out the Free Nose. It is really pretty easy to rap down to the bivy ledge and climb/TR back out. I want to say it takes 3 60m ropes but it might be that you have to fix from 1 pitch from the top with 3 ropes then lead the last pitch. It's been a while. Definitely a fun way to spend a solo day in the Black without the commitment of starting from the bottom.

Have fun...

did the nose thing and it was cool for a shorter excursion, oh, dont climb the aid pitches! (off route, we did) hard and scary!
i could use some more partners for big stuff. done 33 routes in the black now so know my way around there.

33 routes or 33 climbs? Wow, if you've done 33 rtes and hadn't been on the Hali.

Hey Jay I can give you beta on the H-wall, just shoot me a message. Its pretty straight forward to rap in and the traversing/roofs at the top are no problem, just takes some minor swinging around and bashie clipping. Although, if you have a partner to do it with I would go up from the ground, it would be really fun that way. Also, its never a "death route" and hang dogging up it on lead would not be unreasonable. I kind of wish I had invested the time to have that adventure.

Also, I will definately be psyched to do a bunch more climbing there next spring and would be stoked to climb with someone who has put so much time in there.

~Joe

ya 33, but no time for "hallucinogen" yet!

tank, jason: ya i would like more partners/friends for the big stuff that know what they are doing and have the ability to , at least, figure out self rescue, in case.

marcus: if u need a belay/partner i'd just love to be on it working it.

kalous: if your planning on doing it i'd be psyched to help give it a go bro. call me on that.