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Routes in Space Tower Area
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Bonafide T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hallow Souls T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Skinny Puppy T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Tom Gilje and Eric Decaria |
| Page Views: | 6,904 total · 26/month |
| Shared By: | Charles Vernon on Mar 24, 2002 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
This route is located directly across canyon from the one-pitch stuff at Ice Cream Parlor. It is on Space Tower, which is separated from the main cliff by a large chimney that faces NE. The tower appears to touch the canyon wall at the top (it is actually separated by about an inch).
Hallow Souls involves wild full body stemming inside the chimney. Begin by climbing 40 feet of easy choss to gain the clean crack system inside the chimney, on the main cliff. One can belay just inside the chimney, or at a wonderful little ledge about 1/2 way up, or do the whole tower in one rope-stretching pitch (not recommended--there would be lots of rope drag and the top is somewhat run-out).
Near the top the rock becomes soft and brittle and the crack dies out. Chimney out to the right to a good bolt, and continue until you can pull onto the tower side; a short hand crack leads to fixed anchors. This top section is scary--the position is phenomenal! Give yourself a long leash, tag the summit, and then make rap 50 meters to the ground.
Hallow Souls involves wild full body stemming inside the chimney. Begin by climbing 40 feet of easy choss to gain the clean crack system inside the chimney, on the main cliff. One can belay just inside the chimney, or at a wonderful little ledge about 1/2 way up, or do the whole tower in one rope-stretching pitch (not recommended--there would be lots of rope drag and the top is somewhat run-out).
Near the top the rock becomes soft and brittle and the crack dies out. Chimney out to the right to a good bolt, and continue until you can pull onto the tower side; a short hand crack leads to fixed anchors. This top section is scary--the position is phenomenal! Give yourself a long leash, tag the summit, and then make rap 50 meters to the ground.
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