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Best climb you've done on a single set of nuts?

Original Post
Ryan Nevius · · Perchtoldsdorf, AT · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 1,837

What's the best completely trad route you have done using a single set of nuts for pro? For me, The Lieback fits the bill. What say you?

mt.wilson · · Golden, CO · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 45

positively fourth street, eldo

Peter Franzen · · Phoenix, AZ · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 3,730
Exasperator in Squamish.
Scott Jones · · Portland, OR · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 20

The second pitch of Emerald City. I think i placed a full set of nuts on this one.

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 21,746

I led the Stur Chimney on Mount Heyburn in the Sawtooths with a set of 5 hexes.

Was wishin' for a cam or two!

Evan Sanders · · Westminster, CO · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 140

Mostly single pitch routes that aren't even worth mentioning.

Nate Sydnor · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 1,398
Yellow Spur. With all of the fixed pins it goes nicely.
Scott O · · Anchorage · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 70

The crux pitch of Second Coming at Looking Glass.

I had cams with me, but the nut placements were so good that I didn't feel like placing anything else.

Matt N · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 415

I lead ALL my routes with only a pair of nuts.

James Otey · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 785
Matt N wrote:I lead ALL my routes with only a pair of nuts.
Damn you just beat me to it....
Timothy Hosbach · · Breckenridge, CO · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 60

jcrack@lumpy

Brandon Groza · · Bend, OR · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 270

Mainliner at Lumpy...

Ryan Williams · · London (sort of) · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,245

Burning calves is one I remember, at the new. Probably others but not as good. It was only 80 feet but very good.

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

kangaroo corner in squamish ... takes perfect micronuts ... easy 11a or so ... i use 6 cause im chicken ... in reality you likely only need 3 ...

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 24,665

Disappearing Act in Eldo. But I wouldn't recommend it without some caution...

Charles Vernon · · Colorado megalopolis · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 2,655

As mentioned above, the Yellow Spur goes well on a set of nuts to supplement the fixed pins. The only tricky part seemed to be the belay below the crux pitch.

Although technically one of the most difficult pitches I've successfully led, the J Crack headwall goes easily on all nuts. I had cams with me but didn't place any simply because the crack takes nuts so well, and without blocking the tips locks. The entire route would be a good candidate to do safely on nuts, though a couple of sets would be nice for the long second pitch.

Lumpy in general is a great place to do this kind of thing. In general the routes take nuts better than any area I've climbed at.

Colonel Mustard · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Sep 2005 · Points: 1,241

No idea. Why? Do you get extra trad carbon credits?

Guy Kenny Jr · · Boulder, CO · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 10

Curving Crack in Boulder Canyon.

Prod.

Jeremy Bauman · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,067

I used only 4 nuts on Crazy Alice at the Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge. Though I also had cams with me so i suppose I lose some style points.

smassey · · CO · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 200

The trail to the Gallery, RR...

Caleb Padgett · · Rockville, utah · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 85

The Nutcracker, Yosemite valley

knowing the history I just had to climb it with stoppers. I actually had like 2 sets of nuts and a couple hexes, fun and though provoking climbing.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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