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Photos of history and friends - 46 years of climbing!

 
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1968:  Don Decker - who taught me to love climbing.   <br /> <br />English Lit professor at Ricks College in Rexburg, ID.   <br /> <br />Summit of the Grand Teton.   <br /> <br />Don was later killed soloing in the Tetons - leaving a wife and nine children.
1968: Don Decker - who taught me to love climbing...
1969 Just out of high school - learning to climb.   <br /> <br />What's funny about this picture and the hip belay is that Yvon Chouinard is on the other end of the rope. <br /> <br />Yeah, paid him $15.00 for a day of climbing and teaching.  Got the boat ride across Jenny's Lake as part of the deal.
1969 Just out of high school - learning to climb. ...
1969 Arnold Woodruff Miller (dad) - age 55.  Belaying on the Exum Ridge.  Between the ages of 55 and 65 he climbed most of the Teton Peaks.
1969 Arnold Woodruff Miller (dad) - age 55. Belay...
1974 First Grade IV with Larry Conrad.  South Buttress Direct of Moran.
1974 First Grade IV with Larry Conrad. South Butt...
1976 Leslie Miller near the summit of Sassolungo (Langkofel). Dolomites <br /> <br />Summer in Europe.
1976 Leslie Miller near the summit of Sassolungo (...
1976 RKM and Leslie Miller.  Summit of Matterhorn - Zermatt in the background.   <br /> <br />Summer in Europe <br /> <br />
1976 RKM and Leslie Miller. Summit of Matterhorn ...
1976 All the right gear for an ascent of the Hornli Ridge - Matterhorn.
1976 All the right gear for an ascent of the Hornl...
Leslie Miller - Hornli Ridge in '76.  Mismatched gloves repurposed from a garbage can in Zermatt.
Leslie Miller - Hornli Ridge in '76. Mismatched g...
Summit of Matterhorn.  About 9:00 am.  Celebration with a $5.00 ('76 price) can of coke. <br /> <br />August 8th, 1976
Summit of Matterhorn. About 9:00 am. Celebration...
Topless beach at Nice, France.  1976
Topless beach at Nice, France. 1976
Where we spent 90% of the nights.  Student Eurail Passes.  1976
Where we spent 90% of the nights. Student Eurail ...
Marshall Woodruff Miller - age 9 or 10.  Top of Castleton Tower.
Marshall Woodruff Miller - age 9 or 10. Top of Ca...
Steve Bowen, base of Wheat Thin after following Waverly Wafer.  Late 70's. <br /> <br />We told him to 'tape up'!
Steve Bowen, base of Wheat Thin after following Wa...
Steve Bowen.  Top of Louise Falls, Canada.  1984. <br /> <br />First and pretty much last ice climb for poor Steve.
Steve Bowen. Top of Louise Falls, Canada. 1984.
...
Blair Rich - El Cap attempt.  Mid 80's
Blair Rich - El Cap attempt. Mid 80's
An early ascent of Moses North Face.   Late 70's.  Long before it was called Pale Fire. <br /> <br />RKM, Blair Rich, Steve Bowen
An early ascent of Moses North Face. Late 70's. ...
1982  Last pitch of Shiprock.  Totally camouflaged to avoid detection.
1982 Last pitch of Shiprock. Totally camouflaged...
Top out on the Nose with wives and friends - June '75
Top out on the Nose with wives and friends - June ...
El Cap Tower in June '75.  Swami belt and Levis! <br /> <br />With Floyd 'Tex' Bossier.
El Cap Tower in June '75. Swami belt and Levis!

...
Black Ice Couloir, Summer of '82? <br /> <br />Three ice tools total, one Salewa screw, one wired stopper and one piton. Perfect rack! <br /> <br />Bret Olson wearing shorts and Super Gaiters.
Black Ice Couloir, Summer of '82?

Three ice tools...
The old A5 pitch on the West Face of Sentinel Rock - Yosemite, '95 ? <br /> <br />Small TCU's make it easy.
The old A5 pitch on the West Face of Sentinel Rock...
West Face of El Cap.  Fast and free (except one move on the first pitch in the dark). <br /> <br />Team Bitter/Miller. Maybe '90/91
West Face of El Cap. Fast and free (except one mo...
1997  Polar Circus - Canada. <br /> <br />Photo by Bret Ruckman (Ruckmanovich)
1997 Polar Circus - Canada.

Photo by Bret Ruckma...
Top of the Chouinard Herbert on Sentinal.  Fast and free. <br /> <br />Team Bitter/Miller  '93?
Top of the Chouinard Herbert on Sentinal. Fast an...
The great JL pondering avalanche danger in Ouray (Camp Bird Mine Road).   <br /> <br />1984. <br /> <br />Above his head is what would become Bird Brain Boulevard the next year.
The great JL pondering avalanche danger in Ouray (...
1981  After Travelers Buttress - the Leap. <br /> <br />With ultra runner and climber Bryce Thatcher.   <br /> <br />Bryce held the speed record on the Grand Teton round trip for 29 years.  He set it two times, once when he was 18 and three years later when he was 21.   <br /> <br />His fastest time was 3:06.  The current record is 2:53
1981 After Travelers Buttress - the Leap.

With u...
A three day weekend trip from Rexburg to the Bugs.  Climbed both Bugaboo and Snowpatch. <br /> <br />August '81 (part of the "50 classics" road trip years)  Climbed one of the "50" almost every other weekend that summer. <br /> <br />With Bryce Thatcher
A three day weekend trip from Rexburg to the Bugs....
1974  Kim Miller, Grant Moedl and Larry Conrad.  First Grade VI, NW Face of Half Dome. <br /> <br />Skipped the Grade V, had never used Jumars, only aided on telephone pools, had never hauled, drug up Kelty Packs with external frames, lots of beef jerkey, hardly any water - a real learning experience.
1974 Kim Miller, Grant Moedl and Larry Conrad. F...
Steve Bowen - Sentinel Rock. <br /> <br />Part time climber, part time rodeo clown, full time cowboy and street fighter.
Steve Bowen - Sentinel Rock.

Part time climber, p...
An early and illegal ascent of Bridalveil Falls in Telluride. <br /> <br />Probably '76/'77. <br /> <br />Wooden handle North Wall hammers, old style screws. <br /> <br />Helmuts Smelmuts <br /> <br />Photo by Jim Knight
An early and illegal ascent of Bridalveil Falls in...
Son Marshall and daughter Sue. Ancient Art. Probably 2004/5.   <br /> <br />Marshall 'base jumped' from Ancient Art in the fall of '11 and several times after up to 2013.  Video below. <br /> <br /><div style='padding:10px 0;'><iframe id='ytplayer' type='text/html' width='533' height='300' src='http://www.youtube.com/embed/fVcV9ItdZ8w?autoplay=0&origin=<a href='http://www.mountainproject.com&modestbranding=1'' >www.mountainproject.com&modestbranding=1'</a> frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
Son Marshall and daughter Sue. Ancient Art. Probab...
Daddy-daughter date - Ancient Art
Daddy-daughter date - Ancient Art
One of the many trips up 'Dream of Wild Turkeys' - Red Rocks. <br /> <br />Surely one of the finest rock climbs on the planet.
One of the many trips up 'Dream of Wild Turkeys' -...
Wild weather on the North Face of Athabasca - Canadian Rockies. <br /> <br />With Bryce Thatcher.
Wild weather on the North Face of Athabasca - Cana...
2009  Top of 'Space Boyz' - El Potrero Chico, Mexico <br /> <br />Photo by Bret Ruckman
2009 Top of 'Space Boyz' - El Potrero Chico, Mexi...
Brian Smoot cleaning, Merrill Bitter jugging - a long way out from the wall. <br /> <br />West Face - Leaning Tower - Yosemite 2002
Brian Smoot cleaning, Merrill Bitter jugging - a l...
Joanne Urioste - Red Rocks. <br /> <br />Been climbing with her for 34 years now.  And yeah, we're the same age.
Joanne Urioste - Red Rocks.

Been climbing with he...
After five days on the Nose!  1975 <br /> <br />'Tex' Bossier, the late Grant Moedl, and RKM
After five days on the Nose! 1975

'Tex' Bossier,...
Just how I remember the Tetons as a kid. <br /> <br />Garnet Canyon Meadows.
Just how I remember the Tetons as a kid.

Garnet C...
An early attempt on the Coffin Roof. <br /> <br />Jonathan Smoot belaying.
An early attempt on the Coffin Roof.

Jonathan Smo...
Sunrise on Mammoth Terraces - El Cap. <br /> <br />During one of the two failed attempts on the Salathe'. <br /> <br />Also, looks like I forgot to tie in for the night.
Sunrise on Mammoth Terraces - El Cap.

During one ...
1979 oil crisis? - no problem, just strap 15 gallons to the back of your car and head to Yosemite. <br /> <br />Leslie Miller and the late Mark Ward.
1979 oil crisis? - no problem, just strap 15 gallo...
Here's how Moonlight Buttress used to be in the early 70's.  A full on A3 third pitch with RURP's in sandstone. <br /> <br />Look at that rack of pins!
Here's how Moonlight Buttress used to be in the ea...
Look!  My very own book of climbing pictures for my 60th birthday.   <br />
Look! My very own book of climbing pictures for m...
1974.  Some kids headed for the NW Face of Half Dome - with no clue what they were getting into. <br /> <br />I wore those Chouinard Knickers for years.  I loved them.
1974. Some kids headed for the NW Face of Half Do...
On the third day of Half Dome - just below Big Sandy Ledge.   <br /> <br />We made it off that night - barely.
On the third day of Half Dome - just below Big San...
1971,  I found time for other interest when I was 19. <br /> <br />The 17 year old future Mrs. Miller
1971, I found time for other interest when I was ...
1980  Just lead 'Death and Transfiguration' - 11b, Boulder area. <br /> <br />RKM, Pat Ament and Cam ? Photo - Mark Ward.
1980 Just lead 'Death and Transfiguration' - 11b,...
Top out on Lunar Ecstasy - Zion's.  November 1997 <br /> <br />A fairly early ascent of this beautiful route. <br /> <br />Photo - Brian Smoot
Top out on Lunar Ecstasy - Zion's. November 1997
...
Yikes!  Steep Canadian Ice. <br /> <br />Pilsner Pillar - mid '90's.  Yoho National Park, BC. <br /> <br />Photo by Bret Ruckman
Yikes! Steep Canadian Ice.

Pilsner Pillar - mid ...
Tighten up the right one a little, I plan on 'sending' this baby on site! <br /> <br />City of Rocks, Sept 2013 with Joe.
Tighten up the right one a little, I plan on 'send...
Joanne Urioste following the crux pitch on a very early ascent of Levitation 29. <br /> <br />Early 80's.  State of the art gear and shoes.
Joanne Urioste following the crux pitch on a very ...
Early snow in Castle Valley.
Early snow in Castle Valley.
Chasing the sun on the last lap at Breadloaves.  Sept 2013. <br /> <br />Can you spot the approach shoes (Crocs).
Chasing the sun on the last lap at Breadloaves. S...
Old school ice climbing.  Jim Knight with a rack of antique screws, a prototype Snarg (given to him by Jeff Lowe) and even a Wart Hog (Google that). <br /> <br />'76 or '77
Old school ice climbing. Jim Knight with a rack o...
Bridalveil Falls, Telluride in 1977/78. <br />   <br />Drove from Rexburg, Idaho twice within a month to get this done.  We believed at the time it was within the first 10 or so ascents.  Pretty lean conditions. <br /> <br />It was hard, really hard - and scary.  Jim Knight lead the difficult stuff. <br /> <br />Jim was an excellent ice climber back in the day.  Probably still is.
Bridalveil Falls, Telluride in 1977/78.

Drove f...
Bridalveil Falls, Telluride.  2002. <br /> <br />Fat and nice. Another party of three on the main line (right side) told us to stay away.  <br /> <br />We climbed the complete left side to the top, walked off, and were probably in Grand Junction by the time the other party topped out. <br /> <br />Climbed with Jason Jones.
Bridalveil Falls, Telluride. 2002.

Fat and nice....
1968.  On top of Disappointment Peak with my dad.  The Grand Teton in the background. <br /> <br />Photo by my older brother - Wood Jr.
1968. On top of Disappointment Peak with my dad. ...
1969 - Devils Tower.  At that time, you had to write ahead and ask for permission to climb, have a letter or two of recommendation, have the ranger check your gear at Park Headquarters, etc., etc. <br /> <br />You also had to have helmets - thus a few construction hats and one motorcycle helmet in the picture.  Snowed most of the day but we had driven way to far (Rexburg, Id) to not summit in any way possible. <br /> <br />Steve Henderson, Val Price, Kim Miller (with the Millermitts and hammer).  Photo taken by John Ricks - whose parents let us take their Cadillac.
1969 - Devils Tower. At that time, you had to wri...
Probably '75.  Top of Castleton Tower via the Kor route.  This was pre "50 Classic Climbs" era, so we were the 19th ascent of the tower.   <br /> <br />Did it the next year and we were in the 50's, a couple of years later, in the 200 range, and then into the thousands of ascents before the summit register disappeared.  <br /> <br />I got part way up this beauty a year earlier by myself, having a 'desert solitaire' day.
Probably '75. Top of Castleton Tower via the Kor ...
Ah! the desert in '74.  Snowing, blizzard conditions, a rack of pitons, friends that had never climbed before (or ever would again).   <br /> <br />What could ever go wrong.
Ah! the desert in '74. Snowing, blizzard conditio...
Three generations, on the rocks! <br /> <br />Backyard Boulders - Castle Rock State Park, Idaho  2013
Three generations, on the rocks!

Backyard Boulder...
Bret and Judy Ruckman - road tripping, July 1989.  City of Rocks, Idaho <br /> <br />Some of my best friends. I've climbed with Bret for 28 years - from Valdez, Alaska to El Potrero, Mexico
Bret and Judy Ruckman - road tripping, July 1989. ...
Ya' ever lead something 'back in the day' and think you were really cool - only to figure out later that you were really stupid? <br /> <br />And, damn lucky! <br /> <br />Automatic Control Theory - Santaquin Canyon, Utah
Ya' ever lead something 'back in the day' and thin...
Bret Ruckman always had the latest, greatest tools.  I was always a generation or two behind. <br /> <br />Whiteman Falls - Canada, mid '90's
Bret Ruckman always had the latest, greatest tools...
One of the first few ascents of Swoop Gimp or Be Dust in Zion's.  Still plenty of pins at that time. <br /> <br />Mid '90's with Jason Jones
One of the first few ascents of Swoop Gimp or Be D...
Blair 'Charlie' Rich on Spaceshot, Zion's, Oct '98.   <br /> <br />We've climbed together since '68 in high school. <br /> <br />Back then, we were rock and roll stars with our band; Stark Naked and The Car Thieves. <br /> <br />Not sure where the pink shirt came from . . . or why?
Blair 'Charlie' Rich on Spaceshot, Zion's, Oct '98...
Jason Jones on an ascent of Sheer Lunacy in Zion's - May '97
Jason Jones on an ascent of Sheer Lunacy in Zion's...
Brian Smoot after an early ascent of Desert Shield in Zion's. <br /> <br />I've climbed hundreds of routes with Brian over the years.  He and I make a great partnership and continue to climb with each other often.
Brian Smoot after an early ascent of Desert Shield...
Bill Boyle on Lovelace in Zion's.  Early '90's. <br /> <br />The independent Fang Spire behind him. <br /> <br />Bill has done more first ascents than I could count. Hundreds in American Fork Canyon alone.  Dozens more at City of Rocks.
Bill Boyle on Lovelace in Zion's. Early '90's.

T...
Bret Ruckman and I in the Flatirons, Boulder.  Twenty eight years ago.  1986 <br /> <br />He dressed like a sponsored athlete and I was still shopping at Salvation Army.
Bret Ruckman and I in the Flatirons, Boulder. Twe...
Lost Angel on Angels Landing.  One of the first few ascents of this route in 2001.  The route is between Prodigal Son and Ball and Chain and goes up the blank bulging wall via beak cracks. <br /> <br />We had 18 beaks/peckers/rurps and used most of them on two continuous pitches. <br /> <br />Climbers below my right are starting up Prodigal Son. <br /> <br />Photo by Brian Smoot
Lost Angel on Angels Landing. One of the first fe...
'I can't believe it's raining'. <br /> <br />Flew from SLC to Seattle, rented a car and drove through Vancouver to Squamish, spent the night and woke up to a drizzle.  Oh well, we have to climb it regardless.  We have a flight to catch. <br /> <br />The Grand Wall . . . in less than perfect conditions.  With Jason Jones
'I can't believe it's raining'.

Flew from SLC to ...
The famous Mount Cook - New Zealand - from the Hermitage Lodge. <br /> <br />February 2014 with my little buddy.
The famous Mount Cook - New Zealand - from the Her...