1 locker or two O&O ovals?

I have a pre-made TR anchor made from an extension limited sling with lockers for the bolts. My question, is would you feel better with a master point of 1 locking biner or two opposite and opposed ovals? I have both and just want a consensus.

Thanks.

for TR or lead climbing? If I am TR and don't have my Mark IV Mod 5 eyeball on the anchor, I use opposite and opposed lockers (steels actually) for the master point. If I am lead climbing and hanging there at the anchor I use one giant locker (BD Rocklock) for the master point which I anchor into with a clove hitch on my end of the rope and then generally clip into the top shelf with my PAS for a redundant point.

I usually do this. I have a draw with a locker on each end and then just use a normal draw.

Pretty much the same difference to me. Depending on how the TR setup is laying, the locker may unscrew if it is rubbing against rock at any point. In that case, I would go with opposite ovals. But I've done both and don't really worry about it.

Why wouldn't you use two lockers instead of two ovals?

6 of one. half a dozen of the other.

adam brink wrote:Why wouldn't you use two lockers instead of two ovals?

Just general safety of the lockers is a good reason. And I really don't think many sport climbers even own an oval carabiner anymore. They aren't on draws and not on the PAS system, so have little use except to store gear (nuts) and on long neck slings for trad climbs. Most of my old ovals are retired by now.

adam brink wrote:Why wouldn't you use two lockers instead of two ovals?

I don't have two lockers, I have two ovals and one locker. I figure, they're about the same level of safety, so I thought I'd find out what folks like to see when they get to the anchors on TR.

In a slingshot toprope setting, two opposite and opposed carabiners are always safer than a single locking carabiner, for the simple fact that in an extreme situation the locker could unscrew and open. An O/O setup is by definition an unbroken ring of metal, meaning that with both carabiner gates open the toprope cannot slip out.

Plus one for Rob.

It is a bad idea when top roping to only have a single point (biner) where the rope passes through.

Two lockers can be good but sometimes the screw gate causes them to sit funny.

I think the AMGA suggests two lockers or THREE opposite and opposed biners... Super bomb proof!

If it's only going to be a couple people TRing after me, I'll just leave draws, if I have two left over, but if it's a popular route with lots of beginners taking turns on it, I don't want the wear on my draws. I think I'll go with the ovals now.

Thanks again for the input.

Use the locker and a opposite non locker. If you don't want to spend the $6.95 for a locking biner.

i run the rope through the chains

Darren Mabe wrote:i run the rope through the chains

I'm assuming you know that this is degenerative and bad practice if others are TRing or seconding.

If this is a Belay Station I just put up a sliding X with a locking biner for a M point throw, hitch my harness to the MP and set up a redirect or autoblock.

For consensus purposes I prefer one locker over 2 ovals. Bring the minimal amount of gear

Luke Stefurak wrote:I think the AMGA suggests two lockers or THREE opposite and opposed biners... Super bomb proof!

No. They don't.

Darren Mabe wrote:i run the rope through the chains

This is a terrible idea. Why not take a point of failure out of the system and run the rope through the hangers?

So, has anyone ever heard of two opposed non-locking draws somehow coming off the rope in a toprope setup? Neither have I. Add a locker, or not. Statistically it won't make any difference. Just avoid using ONE locker alone as the sole point of attachment.