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Routes in Allen's Ridge Area
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Alpenbock Crack T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Cavity Chimney T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Hanging Slab Gully WI3 |
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Hanging Slab Right - Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Steinfell Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Trench Warfare T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Johnny Woodward: 1995 |
| Page Views: | 23,935 total · 118/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned on Aug 27, 2007 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Route Description
This route is among the most difficult crack climbs in the world. Trench Warfare follows the yellow line. Wench Warfare, an extension, follows the green line.
I've never successfully redpointed the route. But I sure gave it a good try. I think exiting the pod is the crux. Most folks I've asked about it say there is no distinct crux location. The length of the route is what seems to give it its difficulty. Ironically, it's only about 60' long. But the logic behind it can't be easily dismissed. The route is an athletic event. Try not to throw up... or down. :-)
I've never successfully redpointed the route. But I sure gave it a good try. I think exiting the pod is the crux. Most folks I've asked about it say there is no distinct crux location. The length of the route is what seems to give it its difficulty. Ironically, it's only about 60' long. But the logic behind it can't be easily dismissed. The route is an athletic event. Try not to throw up... or down. :-)
Protection
You may want a rack of 10 cams (2"-6") and 10 carabiners. A buddy can actually hand you each cam from the ground as you are climbing the route. If you look closely you'll notice you don't really need any protection for the crack when it grows beyond 4" because there is a fixed runner & carabiner in place now. If you don't have a cam bigger than 4" you can still keep from hitting the ground. But taking 1 or 2 bigger cams will help you "work" the route near the pod.
For reference:
New #4 Camalot: 2.6"-4.5"
New #5 Camalot: 3.4"-5.9"
For reference:
New #4 Camalot: 2.6"-4.5"
New #5 Camalot: 3.4"-5.9"
Location
If you can see Super Slab, directly across the canyon from the park and ride lot (and/or slightly up canyon from the electronic sign at the bottom, which is kinda straight across from the Scruffy Band, and Super Slab is slightly up and left of Scruffy Band), then, look to the left.
You'll pass a gully, then hit "Hanging Slab" as the next slabish rock left of that gully. Hanging Slab has a hut cut out in it, and the boulder that slid out of the cut out is what forms the roof crack of Trench Warfare.
If you park, walk up canyon until you kinda straight across from it, you'll see a faint trail through the weeds that drops down to LCC creek. Cross the creek, and pick up a trail that goes by some neat old quarry stuff from the mid 1800's. Follow the trail up hill staying left of the gully to the right (and you'll be able to see Super Slab as well). Trail should go right up to Trench Warfare boulder and then the base of Hanging Slab.
Warm up on the Steinfell route (fun, friction, so, not really a warm up for an upside down OW climb!). Place pro often, the ground is really close...
You'll pass a gully, then hit "Hanging Slab" as the next slabish rock left of that gully. Hanging Slab has a hut cut out in it, and the boulder that slid out of the cut out is what forms the roof crack of Trench Warfare.
If you park, walk up canyon until you kinda straight across from it, you'll see a faint trail through the weeds that drops down to LCC creek. Cross the creek, and pick up a trail that goes by some neat old quarry stuff from the mid 1800's. Follow the trail up hill staying left of the gully to the right (and you'll be able to see Super Slab as well). Trail should go right up to Trench Warfare boulder and then the base of Hanging Slab.
Warm up on the Steinfell route (fun, friction, so, not really a warm up for an upside down OW climb!). Place pro often, the ground is really close...
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