crazy day at the creek?

unnecessarily dangerous? i think we are getting a bit carried away here....

Thanks guys for your concern with HIPPA. This actually isn't a HIPPA violation as everything I mentioned is public knowledge. I have given no specifics about his medical information that isn't public knowledge as well and obvious. But again thank you. And thank you for not being an embarrassment to the human race like others on here.

Best Wishes,

Matt King

steve lindsay wrote:The couple next to us were climbing Coyne Crack. The man peeled off, while clipping, 25 feet up and decked.

JLP wrote: The bigger lesson here, IMO, is to avoid greasy, rounded out, Crisco smeared, gumby infested piece of shit cracks in IC. What an absolutely miserable way to end up in the hospital. IMO - if you can't make the anchor in a couple falls, go find another climb. You're ruining the route for others. Coyne used to be a cool route, now it's a desperate and nasty piece of crap - with a crux low to the ground and a large boulder nearby.

The method in which you used to derive your conclusion of "the bigger lesson here" is devoid of any logic. This could have been a thread about a lost cam at the base of Coyne and you still would have found someway to interject with the overplayed 'don't climb and ruin these elite cracks, you unworthy noob' sobs. The climb is not desperate nor nasty. And to blame or attribute this so-called, "grease" on a fully protectable route for a climber's 25 foot fall without any knowledge of the cause of accident is incredible. Yeah, we get it. You must have climbed in the creek BITD. Now these so-called POS cracks are Crisco'd up by the likes of ALL climbers- gumby and elite. Glad you hate the place so much. It's one less bitter climber at the crag.

Best wishes on a full recovery to the injured climber.

What lame news. I hope the injured makes a full recovery.
Coyne's has a rather sordid history of hurting people.
Look at what happened to L.Coyne when he was trying for the FA.
His cam popped and hit him in the eye, temporarily blinding him.

Anyone remember the guy who got crushed by rockfall at the base of incredible hand crack?

JLP wrote: Go get some reading comprehension. My point is the climb has been ruined by gang TR sessions, and has become unusually desperate and dangerous to lead for the grade.

umm yeah, unusually dangerous is what you said. again, i think you are getting a little wound up here.

Moderation:

Cut out the trolling, the ad hominem attacks, and the attitude. This was not an unreasonable thread to have started. It will be locked however, if the name-calling, personal attacks, and off-topic remarks continue.

There isn't a problem with discussing the sketchy nature of Coyne Crack (hell, I found it pretty scary myself) but let's try to be civil.

Peter Franzen wrote:Moderation: Cut out the trolling, the ad hominem attacks, and the attitude. This was not an unreasonable thread to have started. It will be locked however, if the name-calling, personal attacks, and off-topic remarks continue. There isn't a problem with discussing the sketchy nature of Coyne Crack (hell, I found it pretty scary myself) but let's try to be civil.

If I were the wife/girlfriend of the accident victim, I would want to tear out JLP's miniscule and unfeeling heart, and then tell him how he should keep his useless opinions to himself.

Actually, not even being her, just witnessing, I rather feel the same myself.

My best wishes for a full and a speedy recovery to Garreth, and strength and healing to his friends and loved ones.

GO

Positive thoughts and best wishes to the injured climber and his family. We all dread this exact scenario, and my heart is made heavy knowing what happened.

Thanks to all who participated in helping your fellow human beings in trouble.

Thanks to all who attempted (and who continue) to provide some respectfulness to this thread and to our climbing culture. Isn't this the time of year where everybody should be thinking about all the things we can (and should) be thankful for?

I'm thankful for my health, and for what climbing has given to me.

And as for the validity of people getting on Coyne, or any other climb, when it's quite hard for them - that's a personal choice. Sure, Coyne's crack is very hard at the start, and eases up as you get higher. Big deal.

Plenty of climbs in the Creek and elsewhere in the desert have hard, bouldery moves, right off the ground, often with sketchy or no protection in undercut Wingate, in Chinle blocks, or in otherwise suspect rock. If the FA did not see fit to place bolts in these sections, then the leader simply needs to make his or her best choice as to whether or not to proceed. Starting up a slick crack is not that different, aside from the fact that there is always the option to basically safely aid up it.

First time I got on Coyne's I placed a ton of gear at the beginning, and rested/fell on a lot of it. It took two more goes before I could send it clean.

If my getting on a climb that was too hard for me to get to the anchors in one or two falls offends you, or if you think that leaders should stay away from climbs that could potentially be very dangerous, well, too damn bad. We all make choices, sometimes they work out well, sometimes horribly. So be it.

Cheers,

GO

johnL wrote:I certainly started enjoying the creek more once I realized I had no more right to climbs or to be there than anyone else. Really good and really accessible climbs will see more traffic. This isn't news. I don't see the sense in berating someone for falling on a route that used to be better than it is now.

+1

It was on "Fringe of Death" that Leonard popped the cam.

Allen Hill wrote:It was on "Fringe of Death" that Leonard popped the cam.

According to Coyne's comment on Coyne Crack;s description on this site, he popped a cam on Coyne Crack. Not sure about the Fringe of Death thing.

Allen Hill wrote:It was on "Fringe of Death" that Leonard popped the cam.

Then the late great Earl Wiggins book Canyon Country Climbs is incorrect?
(edit to add)
Fringe of Death got its name from Jimmy Dunn's heroic effort on the FA, according to the account in Canyon Country Climbs.

i'm pretty sure it was wiggins who put up fringe of death (jimmy belayed).

slim wrote:i'm pretty sure it was wiggins who put up fringe of death (jimmy belayed).

My bad. It was a route in Fringe of Death canyon and the canyon got its name from the FA of a route that Jimmy basically free soloed because he couldn't stop to slot a hex.

johnL wrote:I'm not going to comment on the climbing accident, I wasn't there. On my way in to the creek friday around noon, I saw a car 40' off the road at the first switchback. There was another car parked and looking at it. I have no idea if that was distracted driving or the aftermath of of a chase.

That guy was just a distracted driving. He was going a little too fast looked down to check the guide book and fiddle with a cellphone. He's okay, no injuries and a totaled car.

Marc H wrote: The guy is fighting for his life and you're talking shit, saying he should have gotten on another route. GFY. --Marc

+1

Anybody know how Garreth is doing?

GO

GabeO wrote:Anybody know how Garreth is doing? GO

Last update I had was 4 days ago and he was still critical but stable. He and his wife could still use the positive thoughts and prayers.

Gareth did not make it. God be with his family.