Harness recommendations?

I've been using the same harness since I started climbing, and it's past time to replace it. I can't seem to find what I need so I'm hoping those of you who have worn more than one type of harness in their lives or who are better-informed gear shoppers than I can help me out.

The harness that is currently falling apart on me is a Black Diamond Primrose that pretty much looks like http://www.rei.com/product/765513/black-diamond-primrose-al-climbing-harness-womens.
I like it just fine, none of the features bother me, but I'm not opposed to the idea that improvements are possible or that I only like it because I'm used to it. The problem I'm having is that I want a harness with traditional buckles on waist and legs, I like being able to adjust them and even remove them all easily and absolutely do not want speed-buckles on my harness. It seems most of the harnesses I find have switched to speed buckles or have fixed leg-loops. Anyone know of any that still use traditional buckles?

Things I need:
4 gear loops (more might be ok, but seems unnecessary)
adjustable/removable/traditional buckle leg loops
drop-seat

Things I like:
strong haul-loop
hanging belay comfort is far more important to me than weight

Women's specific - I wear an XS in the women's BD primrose, and the waist belt is adjusted almost as small as it can be, so I find it unlikely that a men's harness would fit well.

Oh while we're on the topic, anyone got any thoughts on BD's new track-fit leg-loop thing? I've never seen one in person but it just sounds like overall a bad idea, curious what your thoughts are if you've tried it. And I've seen some harnesses where the gear loops stick straight up when nothing is clipped to them... is there any reason for that? Doesn't seem like there's any upside to me.

Thanks for your help, looking forward to some fascinating and enlightening harness discussion!

I think you might want to add what type of climbing you like to do. That might help people give you better suggestions. Having said that, I just picked up a Misty Cadillac (mens) and love it. They do have a womans mistymountain.com/p/5120W-W… and it fits the criteria you mentioned. I should also mention that if you need a custom size they will do that. The Cadillac is more of an all day trad harness but after wearing it a few times I think I would prefer it over my lighter BD Chaos and Metolius Safe Tech.

Thanks for the recommendation, definitely putting that one in the maybe pile. Since you have this harness, do you find the orientation of the gear loops annoying? I can't understand why you would want them to stick up like that. Can you shed any light on the double waist buckle, do you find that useful?
Thanks!

Hi Em Cos,

Whatever you buy, try it on and hang in it first.

Good Luck!

Scott Mc

Scott, solid advice, though unfortunately I'm probably stuck with ordering. All the more reason to find out what others have liked.

Killis, that's sort of the thing that seems like it would be annoying - depending on whether the gear loop is currently empty or weighted, I'd be trying to aim for a different place to clip... but it sounds like it hasn't been a problem for those of you that use them.

Thanks for weighing in everyone, definitely checking out misty mountain, if anyone has other ideas keep them coming!

I think you might want to add what type of climbing you like to do.
good luck for u.

I've got a Misty Mountain and I don't wear it very often because whenever I seem to have it on I find that I spend far too much time hanging in it because it's so damn comfortable. With that being said...it is an aid harness. Perhaps, as others have suggested, you tell us what type of climbing you plan on doing with it? I would guess that doing so would garner much better advice from the peanut gallery.

My current free climbing harness, which I've also used for short aid routes, is a Petzl Corax. Not sure what makes that tiny thing so damn comfortable but I actually forget that I've got it on sometimes. It's got a known problem with the gear loops wearing out early but if you get it at Return Every Item you can just swap it out with a new one every few months. I'm on my third. THEE most versatile harness I've owned. Of course it's got speed buckles, and I'm gunna die. Whatever.

Arcteryx R320a is way comfortable, adjustable, and light. that's been my favorite that I've worn.