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Routes in Monument Canyon
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Big Bertha T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Big Foot T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Carter Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Circle, Square, and the Triangle S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Crispy Corner V-easy 3 |
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Da Nada 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C3- |
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Desert Solitaire T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c C0 |
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Egypt Rock - The Revolution Will Not be Televised T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Elephant Head T,S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Euro Route T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Friends Can't Be Trusted S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Get A Life T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Higher Mind Dynamics S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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It Ain't Over Til It's Loose T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Left Dihedral aka Dihedral 1 aka First Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Luhr's Route aka Right Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Monolith Spire - Dewar Dihedral T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Mormon Tea T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Otto's Ladder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Out of the Frying Pan Into the Fire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pharaoh Point - Chimney Wide T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 R |
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Pina Colada V2 5+ |
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Route 2 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Route 4 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Short Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Snake Eyes V1 5 |
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Unknown Tower - Northwest Face T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Wide Load AKA Industrial Strength T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Wide Load aka Route 3 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Wingate Warrior S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Wizard I T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Aid, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | AC Robertson and Todd Warren, 1997? |
| Page Views: | 1,731 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Jesse Zacher on Jan 20, 2008 |
| Admins: | Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
Pitch 1: The crux is 30 feet off the ground where you have to face some blown out piton scars. Bad gear and a fall might end you up on the talus. This goes clean, do not bring a hammer, there is already enough rock damage. Once you high step the last pecker scar trend right with the giant flake and make a semi free move to gain a rotten crack that widens to #5/6. Be careful of the block below the anchors as it is detached.
Pitch 2: is C1-ish through a roof and up a flare to belay anchors.
Pitch 3: was short and solid to a natural anchor on the right side of a good ledge. Probably C1+ on the FA but I thought it would go free at 10ish. Anybody know?
Pitch 4: was no fun with some big loose blocks stacked in the back of the chimney. It was getting pretty dark and we may have missed an easier way to get up. 5.9 moves and a lot of 4th class/ easy 5th class and a couple aid moved because Im a chicken when its dark.
Descent: walked off toward town. Stay high on the rock until the last bit. We scrambled down to soon (to the west) and had to do a bunch of unnecessary bushwhacking.
Pitch 2: is C1-ish through a roof and up a flare to belay anchors.
Pitch 3: was short and solid to a natural anchor on the right side of a good ledge. Probably C1+ on the FA but I thought it would go free at 10ish. Anybody know?
Pitch 4: was no fun with some big loose blocks stacked in the back of the chimney. It was getting pretty dark and we may have missed an easier way to get up. 5.9 moves and a lot of 4th class/ easy 5th class and a couple aid moved because Im a chicken when its dark.
Descent: walked off toward town. Stay high on the rock until the last bit. We scrambled down to soon (to the west) and had to do a bunch of unnecessary bushwhacking.
Location
The route is sandwiched between Wide Load (Route 3) and Route #2 in the obvious dihedral with bad piton scars.
Protection
Micro Nuts (offsets helpful) and micro cams, ball nuts (first two sizes), slings, doubles of standard rack, 1 #5 and #6 Camalot. You can do a two rope rap to the ground from the second pitch. Doesn't look to be anchors from then up. A walk off seems possible about a quarter of a mile to climbers left. NO HAMMER.
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