Down jackets

featheredfriends.com/Picass…

Feathered friends hooded Helios: $289.

I replaced my 650-fill Mountain Hardware sub-zero puffy with one of these. The helios packs down to half the size, weighs a lot less, is water resistant, and is warmer. I've had a lot of puffy jackets in my time, but this is my favorite by far.

First Ascent makes some good stuff, especially if you need tall sizes. I have the original Peak XV down jacket in L Tall and it is superb. ColdThistle called it the best technical heavy weight jacket for good reason... but it's TOO warm for most things. Most of the rest of the First Ascent line is nice too.

Linnaeus wrote:First Ascent makes some good stuff, especially if you need tall sizes. I have the original Peak XV down jacket in L Tall and it is superb. ColdThistle called it the best technical heavy weight jacket for good reason... but it's TOO warm for most things. Most of the rest of the First Ascent line is nice too.

The Peak XV is suited for Himalayas, that right there should indicate how warm it is. Probably major overkill for cragging and light hiking. Great jacket though if you need that level of warmth (same could probably be said for a lot of whats been recommended in this thread).

Western Mountaineering Flash

i like choice 3.

Bill Dugan wrote:I'm looking for a down jacket and am trying to choose between the following: Marmot Guides Down Hoody - $175 Western Mountaineering Flash - $260 RAB Neutrino Endurance - $280 The Marmot is significantly less. I see that it is 650 fill down and the WM is 850 and RAB 800. Is this a noticeable difference? I climb rock and don't venture into the mountains much. Joshua Tree, Yosemite, Tahoe, Utah, etc... Thanks all, BD

If this is mainly a cragging, stay warm on the ground jacket, DON'T sweat the 650 vs 800+ fill issues. It's a moot point really. 800 IS nice but you'll pay $$$ for it and for what you're doing I doubt you'll see a good ROI.

I'll second the First Ascent stuff - Very high value and available on SALE more often than other brands. It's starting to gain a following in the PNW with good reason.

Also consider if you really want down. How warm do you need to be? A good synthetic might fit the bill as well...

If I were shopping today (I have and love an old Mtn Hardwear SL with HOOD) I'd seriously look at the First Ascent Mtn Guide Hooded Down Jacket. If you don't need it THAT warm, look at their Downlight Hoodie...

I was looking for an all purpose down jacket with a hood, and decided on the OR Virtuoso (retails for $225, 650 fill, 22.5 ounces size Large)
outdoorresearch.com/en/or-g…

I was looking for something warm enough to use for backcountry skiing, winter camping, occasional ice climbing and 14K summits like shasta. I live in California, and having previously had a Mountain Hardwear Subzero I wanted something lighter and more packable, but still warmer than the lightweight down sweaters that are all the rage these days.

I looked at the MH Kelvinator which was about the right weight and warmth, but the hood does not adjust at all, and it does not pack into its own pocket.

I like the OR Virtuoso because it has a collar AND a fully adjustable hood, it packs into its own pocket, has a mesh pocket inside for gloves etc, it is light and warm but not super puffy, and has stretchy elastic as well as velcro at the cuffs. It fits well with room for layers and looks good. It would be nice if it was 800 fill like the Rab but for my purposes (and yours too from the sound of it) 650 fill is just fine and I got a great deal on it so I'm not complaining.

I put a priority on:
1)having a hood that adjusts and fits over a climbing helmet
2)stuffs into its own pocket (not a stuff sack that will get lost)
3)weight (around 22 ounces)
4)packability
5)price
6)looks
(not necessarily in that order)

for me the OR came out on top. I'm sure the RAB and WM jackets are great too, they were just out of my price range. The patagonia Fitzroy is another good option (more like the OR Maestro, both are longer, fully baffled and higher fillpower down, and warmer, but more than I needed. I wanted an all purpose down jacket, not a huge super warm belay jacket.