Whale Boulder (aka South Paw) Climbing
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Elevation: | 5,950 ft |
GPS: |
39.94195, -105.29945 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
Page Views: | 10,891 total · 62/month |
Shared By: | Orphaned on Dec 20, 2009 · Updates |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Location
I've only been there once, but I'll try my best. Go along the Eldorado trail past where you'd hike down to the East Egg Boulder, passing a rocky outcrop with a nice outlook on the left. About a couple hundred feet, head downhill through some easy off-trail hiking until reaching a few boulders that may have chalk. The obviously large one is The Whale.
Per Dark Helmet: the approach takes 30 - 40 minutes. For reference, it took me 17 minutes after passing the Rincon Wall cutoff. The easiest way to find the Whale Boulder is to hike slightly past the turnoff on the Eldorado Trail until you reach a habitat restoration sign (see the photo) near a cluster of boulders. Turn around, walk ~65 paces back towards a clearing, and head off-trail down sloping gully angling back towards the restoration area. You'll see The Whale in the trees after about 100 meters.
Additional reference points I scoured from the depths of the internet that helped: Nightmare Block approach (The Whale is cut off is located shortly past the Nightmare Block but before the wildlife closure): hike up the Eldorado Canyon Trail as if going to Rincon Wall. Take the main road to the parking next to the Gill Block ~ 1 mile past the entrance. Walk up the road to the west 50 yards, and take the well traveled Eldorado Canyon Trail. Hike uphill for a ways past several switchbacks past a turnoff for some boulders on the left. Keep going on the main trail, pass 5 more switchbacks, and take note of the steep turnoff for Rincon Wall. Keep walking as the trail levels off for a half mile. Pass 4 short switchbacks, the trail levels off again and passes a blunt ridge where the Musical Boulders can be seen downhill to the left. Keep going a quarter mile, pass over a culvert where a spring crosses the trail, and continue for a few minutes through some boulders in the pines. When the trail starts to leave the trees, look up to the right, and the Nightmare Block can just barely be seen uphill 50 yards from the trail.
Another opinion on Whale Block approach beta: when walking along the Eldorado Trail in the nightmare block vicinity, there is a huge block with the "Trailside, V7", and some Will Lemaire scoop problems. From here, if you drop downhill off the trail and follow a shallow wash, you'll encounter the cluster of blocks with Will's Blue Whale problem and others. Continue down further, trend a tad left when walking downwards, and you should run into the Elegant Block. It sits about 50 yards uphill from the bolted Eldo Block.
Per Dark Helmet: the approach takes 30 - 40 minutes. For reference, it took me 17 minutes after passing the Rincon Wall cutoff. The easiest way to find the Whale Boulder is to hike slightly past the turnoff on the Eldorado Trail until you reach a habitat restoration sign (see the photo) near a cluster of boulders. Turn around, walk ~65 paces back towards a clearing, and head off-trail down sloping gully angling back towards the restoration area. You'll see The Whale in the trees after about 100 meters.
Additional reference points I scoured from the depths of the internet that helped: Nightmare Block approach (The Whale is cut off is located shortly past the Nightmare Block but before the wildlife closure): hike up the Eldorado Canyon Trail as if going to Rincon Wall. Take the main road to the parking next to the Gill Block ~ 1 mile past the entrance. Walk up the road to the west 50 yards, and take the well traveled Eldorado Canyon Trail. Hike uphill for a ways past several switchbacks past a turnoff for some boulders on the left. Keep going on the main trail, pass 5 more switchbacks, and take note of the steep turnoff for Rincon Wall. Keep walking as the trail levels off for a half mile. Pass 4 short switchbacks, the trail levels off again and passes a blunt ridge where the Musical Boulders can be seen downhill to the left. Keep going a quarter mile, pass over a culvert where a spring crosses the trail, and continue for a few minutes through some boulders in the pines. When the trail starts to leave the trees, look up to the right, and the Nightmare Block can just barely be seen uphill 50 yards from the trail.
Another opinion on Whale Block approach beta: when walking along the Eldorado Trail in the nightmare block vicinity, there is a huge block with the "Trailside, V7", and some Will Lemaire scoop problems. From here, if you drop downhill off the trail and follow a shallow wash, you'll encounter the cluster of blocks with Will's Blue Whale problem and others. Continue down further, trend a tad left when walking downwards, and you should run into the Elegant Block. It sits about 50 yards uphill from the bolted Eldo Block.
Classic Climbing Routes at Whale Boulder (aka South Paw)
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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