Type: Trad, 240 ft (73 m), 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,550 total · 20/month
Shared By: Osprey Overhang on Nov 27, 2009
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

This climb can be done in two pitches but three is recommended.

Pitch 1) Climb a groove 5.6 with good pro 50ft. to a tree on a ledge.

Pitch 2) Jam cracks, finger locks, and chicken wings 5.7 take you 110ft to a large ledge with a tree directly below a dark chimney.

Pitch 3) Proceed into chimney and grovel your way up until a chockstone blocks your progress. Stem out of the chimney and pull yourself over the chockstone 5.4. Gain the Loggerhead Ledge. 80ft.

This is one of the better ledges in the Valley. Hang out, eat lunch, and make two raps with one 70m rope: From the chains on the east edge of the ledge rap once to the top of Simian Sex, then make one more 35m rap. With one 70m rope, you will need to downclimb easy rock for about 5ft. to reach the ground.

Location Suggest change

This route is located about 1/3 of the way up from the toe of the buttress, and is identified by the groove that marks the first pitch.

Protection Suggest change

Carry gear to 4.5 in. and include plenty of long runners.

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