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Aaron Hope
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Aug 29, 2011
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San Luis Obispo
· Joined Nov 2009
· Points: 346
For all you who climb in Oakland CA, I often wonder what the consensus ratings are for cracks at Great Western Power Co and Ironworks. So based on YDS and compared to actual cracks in Yosemite or Joshua tree, what do you think? I know its little weird to rate these because they are nothing like real rock, especially in Yosemite, but lets hear it! Ironworks: 1)Hand Crack with little roof. 2)Fist Crack (to the right of #1) 3)Finger Crack GWPC: 1)Handcrack on back wall 2)Overhanging fistcrack to fingers.
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Mark Thomas
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Aug 29, 2011
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Broomfield, CO
· Joined Oct 2009
· Points: 3,635
Ironworks: 1)Hand Crack with little roof. 5.8-5.9 2)Fist Crack (to the right of #1) 5.9-5.10a 3)Finger Crack Owiee! GWPC: 1)Handcrack on back wall 5.9 2)Overhanging fistcrack to fingers. 5.10d (fingers section. Wide section more like 5.8) A little off topic, but: PG Presidio: 1) Offwidth w/ Finger Crack (5.9 OW, 5.11b-c fingers) 2) Offwidth w/ Fist Crack (5.10b OW, 5.6 fist)
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Aaron Hope
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Aug 29, 2011
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San Luis Obispo
· Joined Nov 2009
· Points: 346
Mark P Thomas wrote:Ironworks: 3)Finger Crack Owiee! Haha...agree!!!
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Mike Anderson
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Aug 29, 2011
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Colorado Springs, CO
· Joined Nov 2004
· Points: 3,265
Is this this second gym ratings thread in a week???? JFC!!
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KyleAnderson Anderson
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Aug 30, 2011
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San Francisco, CA
· Joined Mar 2010
· Points: 270
what about the cracks at mission cliffs? the straight forward hands crack feels about 5.9 to me, the finger crack to the right seems much harder especially at the top (5.11a?). I haven't completed it, so i can't really guess a good rating. then over at the yosemite wall in the back: -the chimney/layback to the finger crack (5.10a maybe?) -the thin crack to the left of this in the corner (too hard for me! 5.11 hard?) any input?
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thecornyman
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Aug 31, 2011
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Oakland, CA
· Joined May 2010
· Points: 140
Ironworks: 1)Hand Crack with little roof. 5.7 2)Fist Crack (to the right of #1) 5.10a 3)Finger Crack 5.ouch GWPC: 1)Handcrack on back wall 5.8-5.9 2)Overhanging fistcrack to fingers. 5.10b
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Mark Thomas
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Nov 5, 2011
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Broomfield, CO
· Joined Oct 2009
· Points: 3,635
the more I think about it, the more I should downgrade the hand-fist crack at BIW. It used to seem hard since it was the crack I learned on. Last week I climbed up & down it, without tape, using only my hands and right leg (left leg off, even for flagging on the wall). It wasn't too hard, I did it in under 3 mins round trip, and my hands were still nice & pretty. Call it a physical 5.7 but not too technical if you know how to jam. :-)
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Mark Thomas
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Nov 5, 2011
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Broomfield, CO
· Joined Oct 2009
· Points: 3,635
KyleAnderson wrote:what about the cracks at mission cliffs? then over at the yosemite wall in the back: -the chimney/layback to the finger crack (5.10a maybe?) For your opinion of that rating are faceholds on or off for the feet? If using faceholds for the feet, the LB is pretty easy and the crux is transitioning from the OW to lieback. I always get gassed doing the lieback with only wall smears for my feet. Then again, I have spaghetti arms:-)
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