Baruntse Question
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Has anyone been climbing in these? how well do they climb steep ice, how is the warmth, weight and comfort on long days (hiking into the backcountry...snow gullies...etc...? |
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If that doesn't, this should....one pair are Scarpa 6000s, the other Baruntse's. |
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Thanks guys! I had seen Dane's blog prior to the question. I guess what I am looking for is how they perform on technical ice and mixed terrain. I have been using the EVO's for years, but have discovered that once they went away from the old nepal tops, the design in the toe box changed a bit and I have been having trouble keeping toe nails on my feet!! lol I went to the scarpa Mont Blancs (very nice boot) but found that the heel lift was just too great...never had blisters, but on vertical Ice, my calves would burn like I have never felt before...just trying to keep the heels up. So I am looking for a replacement boot for the Nepals...for NEw Hampshire winters in the notches and on Mount Washington. I am considering the Phantom guides, but tried on the Baruntses at IME yesterday and was really impressed. They do seem a bit more lunky and so I fear that their ability to climb steep waterfall ice will be an issue? What do you guys think? |
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I've used them on the standard WI6 stuff in the Rockies and while not a Nepal Evo for being nimble they'll do the job. One thing you won't have is tired calves in these. Tons of ankle support and easy to climb hard technical terrain in them. Easier than the Spanitks by far imo..and I own both. But they are real double boots, technical mixed ground is an acquired taste in them. Ice? It is easy. |
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Heels up to get them back to level....they slipped so much they felt like they would fall off. The boots would drop down, but my feet inside would fight to readjust to the proper and comfortable position. With the Mont Blancs I always felt like I had boots on...they were a separate entity and not part of my foot like other boots had been in the past. Simply bought them too big. Very beautiful and well made boot, comfortable hikers too! |
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Funny...I may end up going full circle and go back to the EVO's. I tried the Baturas which I loved but the lace lock was positioned right over scar tissue from a previous ankle surgery and created a great deal of pain and swelling (left foot only). They were about the best boot I have used. Still, in the back of my mind I worried about the zipper...but for the season that I used the Bat's...I experienced no problems and the feet were warm. Then I moved to the Mont Blanc...not the right boot for me...now I am in a pair of Kayland M11+ which hike like no other boot I have ever worn, seem to be warm though I only used them at the end of last season...guided some gullies on Mt. Washington but did no technical ice with them. They are super lightweight, soles seem rigid enough, so we will see how they stand up to a New England winter this season. Regardless of how they perform on ice, I will be hanging on to these for early and late season climbing. So back to the EVO...hmm. maybe I will have my daughters paint my black toe nails red! lol :) |
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Dane wrote: Baruntse is over kill for where you are climbing. Oobviously so if the Baruntse will easily summit Denali without over boots.Um....not necessariliy. On an average day in January on Mount Washington the winds can be upward of 60MPH (steady) with a wind chill of -35. This is a pic of us on the summit. Guided trip in December. 65 MPH winds -40F. Mount Washington Summit Pic (2010) |
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Last year in january with the windchill it was close to -80 on Mt. Washington... definitely not overkill (though we didnt leave harvard cabin that day) |
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superkick wrote:There you go! lol Crazy up there. I live about 20 minutes from Mt. Washington and have been climbing its flanks for well over 25 years now...nothing surprises me. The Winds have been over 230 MPH up there and frequently tip the needle past 100 in the winter months. They still may be a bit overkill as I don't have the time to do multiple days up there anymore, so I generally do day trips and Crag at Frankenstein and the local haunts. Kind of spying the Phantom Guides...that might be a nice compromise! Sweet looking boot! |
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Hey Chris, given that you live close by how are the conditions looking up there.. aka any idea when you think Mt. Washington (huntington ravine) or stuff like frankenstein will be good to start climbing? |
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Hey Superkick! |
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Pete Doucette and Erik Eisle sent the BLack Dike last week as well...I think there may have even been some ice in it!! lol |
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Sounds good, planning to get out for the first time this season on the weekend of the 19th up in huntingtons. Was just hoping the conditions would be good snow/ice wise and wont be a waste of a 3 hour car drive (terrible weather is fine though..ha). |
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We received about 4-5" in the Valley, a bit more up north. They got slammed in the Southern part of the state though. We could have used it up here! ;) |
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So I am leaning more towards the Phantom Guides now...hmmmmm.... |
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Its really just whatever you personally find to be the most comfortable (and warm depending if youre a cold foot person) |
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Because the Baruntse is an expedition boot, you can often find them for very cheap after being used for a single trip. I picked mine up in almost perfect condition for $250 from a guy that did a few weeks in the Himalayas. But then my South America plans got mislayed and I have kept using my beat up Nepal Tops for winter in Ontario. |
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Good suggestion...I will keep my eye out for sure. Always buzzing the net for deals anyway! ;) |
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"We get much worse temps out here than the NW." |