|By Sam Lightner, Jr.|
Oct 28, 2011
If you tell yourself "the bolt will catch me", you are putting yourself at great risk of falling to a ledge, hitting your belayer and breaking her arm, falling off her and factor 1.5ing the anchor and leaving a bloody mess dripping down the first pitch and onto the party following you. You will then rap off, get your rope stuck, and walk painfully and dejectedly on the ankle that you realize is broken, to the parking area and then subjected to the crass old nurse with the thick glasses in the Moab Emergency Room (which is hard to find). Then you get billed and have to schedule that surgery on your ankle, which won't work.
Take a large cam and use it. Seriously, its not much to carry and its an almost necessary piece for tower climbing in the desert. No reason for you to NOT have it here except laziness and poverty, and poverty doesn't really count in this situ (try paying off the emergency room visit instead? Me thinks not.).
As an addition, again, there is no plan to replace this bolt and there shouldn't be. The first ascentionist, Dan Burgeutte, did the route without the bolt and has asked that it not be replaced. As there is protection that protects the move (you are even toproping with the piece!) it would be silly and against the generally accepted ethics of climbers to replace the bolt. Carry the #5.