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Cayenne Corners
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3.2 from 32
votes
Routes in Ginger Buttress
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All You Can Eat T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Blade Runner (aka The Ginger Arête) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Cayenne Corners T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Cumin Trafficking T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Dry Rub T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Fist or Flips T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Ginger Buttress (full), The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ginger Crack Variation Finish (Der Guberbaum) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ginger Cracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Grab 'Em T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Idiocracy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Jack's Lament T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Life Aquatic, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Like Tears in Rain T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Power Failure T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Snake Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Somewhere Over the Rainbow T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Spice T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Sugar T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Thyme Alone T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2 |
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Unimpeachable Groping S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unintelligible Groaning T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Waterstreak Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 5 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Jimmy Pinjuv, Andrew Fulton, Steve Porcella, Gary Sutherland |
| Page Views: | 4,747 total · 26/month |
| Shared By: | Jon OBrien on Apr 23, 2009 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Cayenne corners is a sick route that gets a slightly vague description in the new guide book. The book shows only the first pitch with an ever-so-slightly misplaced arrow, it actually starts in the left facing corner just to the right. (cayenne corners, duh! excuse us, we're a little slow! LOL) The 10d pitch does not pull the roof proper but traverses to the right to pull it and then climbs the thin, long right facing corner. The 10c pitch was also great but the 6 inch piece was not needed in hindsight. (If you've gotten here clean, you don't need it, although it was nice to have... we bought one for the route and regretted spending the money) We placed it once: Apprx. 15 foot section of run-out 5.8 without it.
Location
This route is easily recognized with Handren's guidebook by the roofs and corners. We were off our game as we let the arrow in the photo make us miss the first corner (cayenne "corners", duh!) and my buddy was lost under the 10d roof, pulling it directly for really easy face climbing above. Our rappel revealed the incredible looking corner that we missed on that pitch! (cayenne corners, duh!!) Basically its the route in the deep corner to the right of ginger cracks, power failure, and unimpeachable groping... Killer route, well done, definitely deserves the star!
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