Type: Sport, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: Team Shred
Page Views: 3,958 total · 24/month
Shared By: Orphaned User on Oct 6, 2010 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Blob, Security Risk DetailsDrop down
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Description Suggest change

Barely Eagle climbs the bald, slightly overhanging shield along twin seams between the existing 5.11c (Eagle Hardware) and 5.11d corner (Golden Eagle) out right. It starts by climbing past an old ring-angle pin in a horizontal (optional clip; use a long sling), and then past seven stainless-steel bolts up the streaks to double-bolt anchors out of sight over the final roof.

Two bolts get you through the first roof (tough-ish) then easier climbing takes you up and right to a semi-stance below the headwall...The headwall is only four bolts long but very sustained, opening with a hard, crimpy boulder problem to continuous, techy sidepull moves and a surprise (!) finish. We brushed it as well as we could in a day, but it will need some travel and a bit of cleaning, so take a brush along if you do it.

The rating is "Boulder 5.12d" or maybe even "Boulder 5.12c" -- I guess you'll just have to go up there and find out what that means. This is one of the more sustained "Boulder 5.12d's" in the canyon and a hell of a lot of fun.

Location Suggest change

This is midway between Eagle Hardware and Golden Eagle.

Protection Suggest change

Seven bolts, one piton, double-bolt anchors.

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