Outside Corner - New Anchors

On top of outdside corner someone has placed a SHINY brand new set of Fixe anchors. I could still blow off the drilling dust, so they are very new. It isnt the work of any of the regulars who initial or trade mark camo the hangers.

There are 101 diiferent places for natural pro, it isn't prudent to rap the route for 8 reasons and the walk off is casual.

What is the story?

PT

I would say they should be removed, there is no need for anchors there.

I climbed Outside Corner not long ago and can't remember a reason to have anchors there. There are huge boulders and great cam placements not far back from the lip. Must be those damn Big Cottonwood sport rappellers again. I thought they stayed at Dogwood.

I thought I would give the opportunity for any route developer who might have set them to chime in.

PT

So T-minus 1 week til their gone?

I went up Weed Be Gone for the first time on Friday. Set a ways back and above the top pitch anchors were a couple of (what looked to be) plated Fixe single-ring rap anchors.

Based on the position I assumed they were sport rappelers' anchors.

However, I don't know how new the anchors are; as I said it was my first time up that route.

It doesn't make much sense to put in sport rappelling anchors at the top of a multipitch climb.

I am really fishing to find out if someone is doing route development below. I didn't see any bolts over there on my way up yesterday, but the belay stances aren't conducive to looking that way and I wasn't looking for new route development as I was climbing.

PT

Can you say free hardware? Seems like there's no need to go to IME for hangers and chains these days...

edit to add: isn't there an old line that tops out in the vicinity of Outside Corner? Ream's Chimney or On the Rocks variation? Something that might or might not have been absorbed by Weed B Gone? Seems like the rock left of these lines is a filthy pile of decomposing choss, I can't imagine someone drilling their way up (down?) it. Then again I'd say the same thing about most of the new stuff that's been popping up in the UT section these days.

Stainless or plated? Single or double ring?

Bolts or studs?

Really, if you were rappelling in and working a line, easy to do off gear anchors.

Still wonder if the anchors on top of the Dead Snag should go...but...they've been there a few years.

If they are there when I climb Outside Corner next, I'll yank em. Hopefully they'll get pulled soon and the person(s) putting anchors on top of this bolt-less classic climb understands their negative action.

There are two fixe single rings like below. I don't know if they are stainless or plated. I also do not know if they used bolts or studs. My lack of eye for those details.

Has anybody yanked these yet????

They were still there as of Wednesday.

I pulled them last weekend.

Nacho for president.

Three cheers for Stevie Nacho!

paintrain wrote:It doesn't make much sense to put in sport rappelling anchors at the top of a multipitch climb. PT

...with a perfectly good walk-off and a horrible rap.

(not that I'm promoting anchors at the top of any multi-pitch)

Thank you for removing those! West Slabs next?

Price wrote: (not that I'm promoting anchors at the top of any multi-pitch)

They make sense for a lot of routes if you are trying to protect the top of the cliff from erosion etc. I can't speak for this area, as I have never been there and have no bone to pick. I almost always place them on my routes though. A trail from the top of every route and then a half mile back to the base is a lot more impact than some simple ring anchors IMO. Our walk offs in the NE are usually heavily vegetated though.

Ben Folsom wrote: Does the West Slabs still have bolts up there? I thought that was getting taken care of. And yes, another thanks for removing these.

From what I understand the abundant glue-ins are problematic to remove.
There was talk about hiking a torch up there, kinda scary.

Three weeks ago, there were still many bolted belay stations on the West Slabs. We also counted one lead bolt. There are a few glue-ins in these belays. It looks like somebody twisted the hell out of one of the glue-ins down low.

The belays are many because they appear to be designed for many single rope raps. We didn't have the tools to pull anything, as we were not expecting the anchors to still be there.