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Toxic Waltz
5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 3 from 1
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Routes in Dairy Queen Wall - Upper Left Side
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Brazier Food T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Chili Dog T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Double Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Electric Free Gordon T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Pat Adams Dihedral T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Tofutti T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Toxic Waltz T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Tom Gilje & Mike Lechlinksi, 1990 |
| Page Views: | 1,636 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Drewsky on Feb 10, 2008 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
To the right of Pat Adams Dihedral is this steep arete. Five bolts lead up the arete. This climb is MUCH more difficult than currently rated, in part because I broke a crimp while trying it in January of '06. At the current time, the crux is probably a V7 boulder problem followed by a difficult perch move on a large horn and more thin face climbing. The climbing is very good and the position is spectacular.
Location
This route is located a pitch off the ground; it starts on a ledge above Leap Year Flake, a good pitch in its own right. The formation is a good ways left of the "main" right section of the Dairy Queen Wall.
Protection
At least five quickdraws. Beware the first clipping hold/stick clip the first bolt: a broken hold/fall would deposit the climber directly onto a yucca (or nolina; not sure which) and possibly off the ledge if the belayer is not anchored.
No anchor exists at the top save old slings around a bush/sapling: exercise extreme caution with the bush/sapling and maybe bring something else to leave up there. It is possible to walk off via a complicated route over the top and down and around the back of the formation. 5th class climbing/downclimbing/traversing is mandatory.
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