All Locations > New Mexico > Santa Fe Area > Diablo Canyon > Winter Wall

Xibalba

Name: Xibalba
Rating: 3.2

5.10c/d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British

Routes in Winter Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Basalt Therapy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Blind Faith S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Bosch Hogg S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Clean Energy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Gopher Broke S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Grape Ape S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Hellboy S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Highly Caffeinated T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Highway to Hell T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Naked Lunch S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Old Sling T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Old Sling Straightened T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Original Face Route S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Pale Face S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Post Moderate S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Protein Supplement S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Roid Boys S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	SOL Man (aka Not In the End) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Sunbaked S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Trough, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Vitaman T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Xibalba S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Order Wrong? Sort Routes

Type:	Sport, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches
FA:	Jason Halladay, Allison Fritz. February 2011.
Page Views:	3,654 total · 23/month
Shared By:	Jason Halladay on Mar 1, 2011 · Updates
Admins:	Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown Page Updates (admin only)

You & This Route

37 Opinions

Your To-Do List: ·

Your Star Rating:
Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change

Your Ticks:Add New Tick

-none-

Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands Details

Per the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Taos Field Office's ( blm.gov/office/taos-field-o…) 2012 Taos Resource Management Plan (RMP) ( bit.ly/2Kab3HO), "Installation of new rock climbing routes or hardware will require pre-approval by the BLM." The RMP is the document that guides all the BLM management in a given field office. Climbers are asked to respect this guidance and not install new bolts or fixed hardware on Taos Field Office BLM land without pre-approval from the BLM. NM CRAG ( nmcrag.org/) is currently working with the BLM Taos Field Office to establish specific guidance for new route development in the district and they hope to have a formal process in the near future.

Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.

Description

This route climbs the face left of the gear/bolts route Basalt Therapy finishing up a nice arête and face climbing with great position on quality stone. It's the first route you'll encounter as you head up the old, western approach trail to the Winter Wall proper.

The route is best climbed as one long pitch (highly recommended!) or two shorter pitches. If done in one long pitch, bring ~22 draws and back clean a few in critical spots on the first pitch to reduce rope drag up high.

It's common for parties to climb just the first pitch but you're really missing out on the best climbing of this route if you don't climb the upper half.

Pitch 1 - 5.9 (105'): Start up just below a large block and make leftward moves to the first bolt. Loose fourth class action gets you by a couple more bolts well to the left of Basalt Therapy to preserve that route's integrity to the roof (but resulting in bad rope drag later). Turn the roof on its left side into some dubious but easy climbing to the next bolt.

Continue up the face and shallow dihedral through a tightly bolted section (due to rock quality) to eventually work leftwards to the arête and better rock. Strongly consider back cleaning the draw from the bolt closest to the "crack" to reduce rope drag. Continue up trending left to the cool, airy belay on faint ledge on the arete.

Pitch 2 - 5.10+ (85'): The reason to climb this route is this pitch. Continue up the fun and airy arête beyond the first anchors on increasingly better rock through some tricky sections and up to the nice-but-small belay ledge just below a roof. Metolius rap hangers will set you up for the rappel back down.

Location

This is the left-most route on the Winter Wall proper. The start is just below the a large block. There's a decent man-made belay platform at the base.

Protection

13-14 quick draws if climbing in two pitches. 22 or 23 quick draws if doing it in one long pitch. If done in one long pitch, bring ~22 draws and back clean a few in critical spots on the first pitch to reduce rope drag up high.

Bolts/carabiners atop P1. Metolious rap hangers atop P2.

Descent Options

Rap the route in two rappels with a single 60m rope. (A 60m rope works, on the P1 rappel, tie knots in the end of your rope.)
Rap the route from the top of P2 in one rappel with two 70m ropes.
With a single 80m rope, climb route in one long pitch and lower from the P2 anchors to the P1 anchors. Anchor into P1 anchors, untie, pull rope through P2 anchors, rethread rope in P1 anchors, tie back in and lower to the ground.
Climb the route and lower to the ground with a single 90m rope. The ends will both be a few inches off the ground but it works.