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in NEED of advice for summiting Mount Washington. winter

Original Post
William Rhyne · · Casper, Wyoming · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 135

Hey i have only hiked Mount Washington while i was on my AT thru hike. I envisioned making a summit push in the winter when i was up top. I do need advice from locals or folks that have been up there in the winter. I have heard i might need crampons and a axe? maybe? My plan is to head up the NH Dec 15th thru the 20th and would try to find a window of opportunity then. any advice or help would be greatly appreciated. and if you want to join more is always welcome. thanks

david garber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 5

Mt. Washington can have the worst weather in the world. You could encounter wind that could make it impossible to stand much less walk and wind chills below -50F, snow depths making forward progess extremely slow and exhausting and route finding a constant if not impossible challenge. You could encounter freezing rain that coats EVERYTHING in bombproof ice (including you). Having said that you could also have a window of opportunity that could present conditions allowing the hike to completed without any special equipment although in late December that would be the exception rather than the rule. My only advice would be to check the online trip reports and the White Mountain and summit weather forecasts in the days leading up to your possible bid and only attempt it if conditions allow and be prepared to bail if conditions deteriorate. Do not go alone and make sure to tell someone your route and predicted finish time.

Morgan Patterson · · NH · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 8,945

All the things david said... Dec. can be heinous. I'd be prepared with snowshoes or skins, axe, crampons, (beacon, probe, shovel if ur anywhere near tux).

Tom Pierce · · Englewood, CO · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 0

I've done Washington twice in winter. IMO you'd definitely want crampons and an axe. I thought the winter route (near the Lionshead cut-off) was a bit sporty in spots for a walk-up route, and the NE peaks tend to be a bit icier than those in Colorado. But overall the climb presents little technical challange. That said, as noted above, the weather can be horrific. Bitter cold, high winds, white-outs, etc. Both times I summitted (Feb and Mar) we were lucky with decent weather (winds gusting to 67, steady at 55 or so). You just really have to pick a good weather day, gear up for potentially brutal weather, and have the sense to abort if things get too bad. There's a website where you can monitor Washington's weather real time. Good luck!
-Tom

Scott0101 · · Laconia, NH · Joined May 2010 · Points: 10

I'm not sure of what you have for winter hiking experience. Mount Washington can be brutal or nice and changes in seconds with no chance of getting down before it does. That being said and noticing that you asked if you would need crampons and a axe, if you haven't already, you might want to consider hitting up some slightly smaller more protected mountains beforehand to work out layering and equipment. Washington is no place to figure out your equipment and how to use it. If it is coated in ice, you can end up slipping at the top and not stop until the bottom. It can be very unforgiving to the unexperienced.

Kurt Swanson · · Philadelphia, PA · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 135

Good stuff, I was considering the same trip. I've climbed Mt. Washington half a dozen times, but never in the winter. I was just going to find a local guide, but I'm a rich yuppie. Mt Wash can be brutal even in summer. Jet stream right overhead.

DannyUncanny · · Vancouver · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 100

Did it via Lions head with a buddy in mid December right after a huge snow dump. We originally tried the Huntington Ravine, but without snowshoes the post-holing was horrendous. We brought crampons and ice axe, but in my opinion neither was necessary on that day. The main thing was the wind and visibility. Make sure you've got yourself sealed up tight.

Jim Davidson · · Fort Collins, Colorado · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 20

All the adove above sounds right to me. Caution is advised, and getting your systems down on a less exposed peak (laffayette or another Prezi peak) is a very good idea. Perspective: In 29 years of climbing around the country and the world, the worst weather I have ever encountered was on Mt. Washington in the winter.

Chris90 · · Unity, Maine · Joined May 2010 · Points: 10

Pinkham Notch is the AMC center at the base and is a great source of information and up to date weather. Also there is the Mount Washington Observatory Website which puts out weather reports every day. You basically want to be prepared to spend the night on the mountain. Weather is unpredictable and many people have died. Lots of layers including puffy jacket/ pants and/or a sleeping bag/bivy. Dont pack heavy, just pack smart. Bring foods that wont freeze ( gels) and make sure to insulate your water bottles. Goggles and glasses are neccesary. 2 pairs is ideal, I have had my goggles freeze over before. Ice axe, insulated winter boots ( double boots if snow), and crampons are REQUIRED! It would be foolish to not bring them or not know how to use them. At the summit there is a small sheltered alcove area, but dont count on anything besides that. IME/IMCS is an excellent place to stop in for information and to buy/rent equipment. They also have top notch guides you can hire for winter ascents of MT washington and many others. Having said all this, its an amazing mountain and absolutly worth the trip and attempt! Good luck to all. I will be out there for an Outing Club trip at the end of October

Roger Harris · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,095

See my photo ( mountainproject.com/v/10732… ) for proper gear & attire for a summit stroll in December. This particular day had winds of 60 mph and temps in the -20 degree range. As my father would say, "think of the guy who has to carry you out", and take proper gear to self-rescue. We had to bivouac on a Presidentials trip a year later and saw temps drop to -40 with strong wind. But there's not better place to be...

H BL · · Colorado · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 95

BRING SOME WARM ASS CLOTHES and a good sleeping bag. Its been years since I've been up there. Last time I camped out near Harvard Hut and climbed in Huntington Ravine. The one weather report with wind chill said it was -50!! All of the above advice is good. Just be prepared and dial in your systems.

JohnnyG · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 10

+1 for what Chris90 said.

I have spent many days up there in winter - I used to work at the Observatory on top and still go ice climbing up there. I consider a face mask essential. On tough days, exposed skin will get frostbite in a few minutes due to the wind.

It's a gorgeous place in winter.

William Rhyne · · Casper, Wyoming · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 135

Hey thanks everyone for the input it has been very helpful. Does any one have some shitty crampons or axes they like to sell

Chris90 · · Unity, Maine · Joined May 2010 · Points: 10

You can buy shitty old crampons n ice axes in the consignment shop in the basement of IME

Rick18 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 10

Ditto on the equipment comments (crampons/ice axe). If you are going solo, having a bivy and/or sleeping bag is a really good idea.

If you have 5 days to wait for a weather window, you could stay at Harvard Cabin (at the foot of Huntington Ravine). The cabin gets morning weather radio updates and, during climbing season, a morning visit from a ranger who updates climbers/hikers on avy conditions. It's an easy walk over to Lion Head from the cabin, and then a good hike to the summit. If the weather sucks, you could still go for a hike up to the bottom of Huntington (but most of the ravine routes up to the top are are technical, and the one/two that aren't require a good knowledge of crampon use). It's a cool place to visit.

T.L. Kushner · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined May 2009 · Points: 5

do you think that step in crampons and a mountaineering specific boot would be required? or would a sturdy, waterproof backpacking boot(coupled with good warm socks and knee high gaitors of course!) and strap on crampons be sufficient?

Chris90 · · Unity, Maine · Joined May 2010 · Points: 10

In this early season, its kind of a crap shoot. I feel like bringing strap on crampons and sturdy hiking boots might be ok, but if the temps drop and the winds pick up you will probably be wishing for somthing warmer. But granted, there isnt snow on the ground yet and hiking in mountaineering boots sucks on anything but snow. I personally would go for it, weather pending

Brian Croce · · san diego, CA · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 60

If youre going in december youll want mountaineering boots.

Id recommend buying them used off geartrade, since its your first time..why shell out for new gear.

Any scarpa or korflach plastic double boot should do. Go to EMS get your size, then buy them on geartrade / ebay / this forum.

La Sportiva Nepal would also do sufficently.

William Rhyne · · Casper, Wyoming · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 135

Alright all this has just been so helpful. Can anyone tell me alittle bit more info on possibly renting gear ( crampons axes and mountaineering boots) ?

David Ford · · Cambridge, MA · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 0

You can rent gear from IME/IMCS or EMS Climbing School, both in North Conway. They have tons of gear for equipping their courses, but it might not be a bad idea to call ahead and make sure they can set you up.

Chris90 · · Unity, Maine · Joined May 2010 · Points: 10

IME/IMCS has all the gear you could possibly need for rental at a fair price. Even if your arent going to rent or buy anything, stop in to chat for any advice

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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