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Rushmore & Custer in October

Original Post
Evan Johnson · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 675

Couldn't find a forum area specifically for SD so I came here, to the general area. Some friends and I plan on heading to the Rushmore area around October 20th.

How is the climbing there in October? I think last time I went was during July.

Guidebook? Can't find it for sale online, and as far as I can remember we didn't really get much use out of it last time.

Third and final question (for now) - looking for some route recommendations. I can comfortably lead 10s for sport and 7s for trad. *We would like to do some multi-pitch.

Thanks in advance,

Evan

T.L. Kushner · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined May 2009 · Points: 5

the climbing there is fantastic! the only guidebook i know of is the one by the same group who did the devil's tower and the gunks guide, none of which are particularly stellar guidebooks.

as far as route reccomendations, the middle earth area in custer SP has some really good routes, (both sport and trad) that fit into the grades you're looking for.

if you want an amazing multipitch route, try spire #2 in catherdral spires. spire #2 is the tallest spire i believe in the formation and is a great 5.7. ri.ght next to #2 is south spire which goes at 5.8 and is one of the best routes in custer IMO. you can easily tick off the two routes in an afternoon and both are classics

rgold · · Poughkeepsie, NY · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 526

If you mean The Needles: A Climber's Guide to the Black Hills Needles, it was one of the worst guidebooks ever written until the authors produced their Shawangunk guide, although it is, I suppose, better than nothing.

The best guide, although out of print and way, WAY, out of date, is Touch the Sky by Paul Piana. I've heard they're selling for more than $100 on Ebay. There are probably copies in the local area shops.

This might be out of date information, but try

Recommended Climbing Routes in the Needles of Custer State Park in the Black Hills of South Dakota by John Page, Granite Sports in Hill City, SD, granitesports.biz/ 605 574-2121.

Mount Rushmore National Memorial Climber's Guide by Vernon R. Phinney. Granite Sports.

Jeff House · · rapid city sd · Joined May 2010 · Points: 65

Waves!!!! South Seas do it double rope rap can do lead on a 60m

Evan Johnson · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 675
T.L. Kushner wrote:...if you want an amazing multipitch route, try spire #2 in catherdral spires. spire #2 is the tallest spire i believe in the formation and is a great 5.7. ri.ght next to #2 is south spire which goes at 5.8 and is one of the best routes in custer IMO. you can easily tick off the two routes in an afternoon and both are classics
thanks for the recommendations - those routes look great
Evan Johnson · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 675
rgold wrote:If you mean The Needles: A Climber's Guide to the Black Hills Needles, it was one of the worst guidebooks ever written until the authors produced their Shawangunk guide, although it is, I suppose, better than nothing. The best guide, although out of print and way, WAY, out of date, is Touch the Sky by Paul Piana. I've heard they're selling for more than $100 on Ebay. There are probably copies in the local area shops. This might be out of date information, but try Recommended Climbing Routes in the Needles of Custer State Park in the Black Hills of South Dakota by John Page, Granite Sports in Hill City, SD, granitesports.biz/ 605 574-2121. Mount Rushmore National Memorial Climber's Guide by Vernon R. Phinney. Granite Sports.
yeah a I know someone with the guide, but we honestly couldn't find anything with it last time - I will try scope out some local shops though, great idea
Evan Johnson · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 675
Jeff House wrote:Waves!!!! South Seas do it double rope rap can do lead on a 60m
did waves/tsunami last time, and plan on doing it again. almost heading back out there for that route alone...
Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280

Climb rough knobby crystals on the Ten Pins area. You'll love the pain. October? I got snowed out of Devils Tower just a couple hours away on Oct.1st one year. Winter comes early to the Black Hills, so be prepared.

Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280

For that price, there better be nudity of some kind involved.

Jason Haas · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Oct 2005 · Points: 1,582

Andrew Burr and Andrew Busse are working on a new color guidebook to the Rushmore/Needles area. The book is done being researched and is in the process of being laid out. I know that doesn't help you with this trip, but it should be availble for the rest of them (due out late winter/early spring)

andyedwards · · OR · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 205

Weird Water in Rushmore is a great climb.
Two rope rap.

Evan Johnson · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 675
aed wrote:Weird Water in Rushmore is a great climb. Two rope rap.
Looks like a solid recommendation. Some of the comments make it sound challenging. I will have to try and find a bunch of beta.

Speaking of beta - does anyone have any good beta on the camping. I know we parked in that parking lot with a bathroom last visit, but stayed somewhere else. Is that the campground area? Where are the best spots?

Anyone else want to weigh in on the weather? Are we likely to see snow? I'm from Minnesota, so it is no big deal - just want to know what to expect.
Evan Johnson · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 675
Chris treggE wrote:There are 4 copies of Touch the Sky on Amazon, ranging from $180 to $14,003. LOL! Why not make it $14,000 even? Throw in free shipping with that?
That is totally worth it for the most useless guide I've ever tried to use :-\
Steve M · · MN · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 100
Evan Johnson wrote: Looks like a solid recommendation. Some of the comments make it sound challenging. I will have to try and find a bunch of beta. Speaking of beta - does anyone have any good beta on the camping. I know we parked in that parking lot with a bathroom last visit, but stayed somewhere else. Is that the campground area? Where are the best spots? Anyone else want to weigh in on the weather? Are we likely to see snow? I'm from Minnesota, so it is no big deal - just want to know what to expect.
You can camp at that parking lot, but other than the outhouse there's nothing much else there, plus it's pretty public. I didn't end up crashing there, but a good looking spot to throw down your tent is at the end of the parking area for the horse trail on the south side of the road from the KOA. It's maybe 2 miles west of rushmore, just E of Palmer Creek road. Park your car and walk into the woods and enjoy the free quiet camping, just don't have a fire...piles of dead and dry stuff everywhere plus it's illegal.
BigMoveMike Jacques · · prescott · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 65

I'v got all the beta you need for Rushmore,free camping, easy trad multipitchand, grate sport routs and even better chilli dogs! Kelsey and I had a blast out there. She has a copy of the shitty guide book you might be able to use. My new number is (928) 642-SixThreeNineOne.

Ps. knot the ends of your rope in the south seas or you might french fry.

Best Wishes,
Mike Jacques

Evan Johnson · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 675
Mike J. wrote:I'v got all the beta you need for Rushmore,free camping, easy trad multipitchand, grate sport routs and even better chilli dogs! Kelsey and I had a blast out there. She has a copy of the shitty guide book you might be able to use. My new number is (928) 642-SixThreeNineOne. Ps. knot the ends of your rope in the south seas or you might french fry. Best Wishes, Mike Jacques
Hey Mike, good call. I remember the chili dogs, those were pretty good. I will have to try and see if I can borrow Kelsey's copy of the shitty guide.
Evan Johnson · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 675

Anyone know where showers would be available? It looks like the Sylvan lake campground will be closed.

It would be cool to meet up with some local climbers, if anyone wants to meet up and climb Oct. 20th - 23rd send me a PM or reply here.

jack roberts · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 0

Check with the Custer State Park before you go. The Needles Highway is closed right now.

Evan Johnson · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 675
jack roberts wrote:Check with the Custer State Park before you go. The Needles Highway is closed right now.
Thanks Jack, I just gave them a call and was told we would have to do a bit of hiking to get to the Sylvan Lakes area. I was told we would have to take trail 4 or 9 - still have yet to find a map that matches that.
Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280

Last I knew, the nat. forest campgrounds nearby also closed up on Sept.30th for the season. Private ones in town might be open, but costly.

Evan Johnson · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 675
Woodchuck ATC wrote:Last I knew, the nat. forest campgrounds nearby also closed up on Sept.30th for the season. Private ones in town might be open, but costly.
At Custer - The Game Lodge Campground is open year-round:
State Park Game Lodge Campground

We might try and stay there a day or two for the facilities.

The Wrinkled Rock climber's bivy (free) is open year round:
Wrinkled Rock Climbers Trailhead

Still trying to figure out how far of a drive it is from Game Lodge to Photographer's Peak - want to get on the Conn Route.

Routes we plan on doing so far are Gossamer, Waves and possibly Tsunami again. Conn Route would be great if I can figure out how to get to it since the Needles Highway is closed. Four little fishies would be fun too. I also want to get on Mr. Critical and X Marks the spot, but the beta on the latter of the two is vague.

  • still interested in meeting up with a local or other climbers in the area, let me know if you're interested in climbing with us
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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