Best Aid routes in the Northeast

Looking to get on my first couple aid routes. I do not need instruction however tips to speed things up and find my groove faster are always welcome!!!! I frequent the gunks...and I know its not a typical aid destination however I have seen some climbs done via aid. I am only interested at practicing clean aid at established crag, no pins.

Im looking for sustained cracks, or horizontals, pockets (not crazy difficult to protect but not looking a cake walk) I have plenty of gear for a typical gunks pitch. Just need a couple hooks and Im set. Let me know of anything interesting within the Gunks, or elsewhere. Daks, NH, Mass, Maine, Etc. Im game for anything. Im researching the Prow to do in a couple weeks after I have a few under my belt.

Also while were on the subject, what hooks have those of you who have aided the gunks, work the best?

Thanks in advance!

Remember, lots of routes in the gunks WERE aid climbs ! Try twilight Zone A2.
The prow on Cathedral is straightfoward but much less fixed than earlier, beware though, a guy just really screwed up and went 100' a few weeks ago.

Tons of shorter stuff as well. The Direct Direct on cannon would be very nice 5.9 & A1 long climb (1,000') and has lots fixed.

Yea, I just cant find any info as far as aid ratings for the gunks routes. I will check out twilight zone this weekend maybe! I heard about the incident on the prow earlier, however I never found out the actual cause or error that led up to it? I did hear there was fatigue and possibly dehydration involved.

I figure I could do a ton of short single pitch stuff to get my momentum down. Maybe over at Peterskill. I'll check out Cannon as well.

Could you or anyone recommend any guidebooks for any of the mentioned areas that have aid ratings? or specific aid guides?

Thanks!!!!!

Check this out:
ghiz.org/gunksaid.shtml

john strand wrote:The prow on Cathedral is straightfoward but much less fixed than earlier, beware though, a guy just really screwed up and went 100' a few weeks ago.

I know John is aware of this fact, but just to clarify for those not aware. The guy that fell 100' didn't fall because of the difficulty of the climbing per-se, but due to an error in rigging his ascenders/backup when very dehydrated.

So go do the Prow and don't forget to drink your water! Have fun.

A large percentage of good easy aid pitches (C1 or C2) are cracks that go free at 5.11-5.13. As such, if you are looking for good routes on which to practice aiding, then you should just find a crag with some steep, clean thin finger cracks to practice on.

A great place that immediately comes to mind is the Spider's Web, in Keene Valley (Daks). Lots of really nice cracks of various sizes. Very clean, sheer wall; generally slightly overhanging. Very good and straightforward gear placements everywhere, but the steepness and some traversing on a few routes will add some interest.

Also in the Daks, Moss Cliff and Wallface have some very impressive aid routes for you to work up to, in the 4 to 8 pitch range.

As a matter of courtesy, though, it would be nice to avoid aiding on popular routes at popular times (such as October weekends), since while learning to aid you will likely spend a bunch of time on a route, and it would be rude to hog a popular free route. Also, of course, stick to the clean gear.

The vast majority of lines are Ao or A1. Some A2 maybe....

Are you going to be soloing ?

Grand Finale is good aid line on Cathedral A2 with bolts, abit of hooking, a tension traverse and great rock.
Nobody ever really is on it either.

Sounds like the guy on the Prow unclipped his backup ascender from his rope. Climber Falls 100' on the Prow.

Glad he's ok.

That's a good example why you'd want to clip into backup loops while you're jugging.

Some great Aid climbs at Cathedral Ledge. Central Wall has a few A3 routes, Mordor Wall has everything from C2 to A3. Cannon has some as well.

get after it, it's all fun. Search out the obscure and have an adventure. and remember, its all a1 until you fall!

get after it. Search out the obscure and go have an adventure! and remember, its all a1 until you fall.

that being said
cathedral has a bunch of good routes
(trade)
prow
mines
mordor
grand finale

(interesting)
warlock
british were coming
forest of fanghorn
reincarnation
pin snatcher

Band M has some great aid routes
Cannon is tons of fun