Type: | Trad, 650 ft (197 m), 5 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | Jorge and Joanne Urioste |
Page Views: | 14,844 total · 72/month |
Shared By: | J. Thompson on Apr 11, 2007 · Updates |
Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Pitch 1: Start up the perfect varnished face passing 4 bolts and belaying from bolts at the base of the obvious chimney, 5.8. Note that the Jerry Handren guide image shows the line through the white patch. The bolts are to the right of this feature and some gear is available between bolts.
Pitch 2: Climb up the chimney clipping 1 protection bolt and follow the crack to a bolted belay at a small ledge, 5.9+.
Pitch 3: Continue up the obvious crack above. Belay at bolts, below an obvious OW. 5.10a
Pitch 4: Climb the short offwidth making face moves at its top. Continue up the obvious crack system to a ledge on the right. Continue up the wide crack (on the left), until you can traverse left to a seam in a varnished face (about 10ft). You're aiming for a bush with a small stance behind it. Belay at this stance on gear. 5.10d.
Pitch 5: This pitch looks more challenging than it is. Use face and crack holds throughout. Where the crack flares into a narrow v-corner, climb up to but not into the white rock. Look right for the belay, bolts and chain painted red.5.8.
This route is VERY good, and should become a classic!
Descent:
From the anchor at the top of the fifth pitch, rappel back to the midway ledge of pitch 4. Traverse about 20ft right to another rap anchor. Next rap down into the chimney. You've now begun rapping the route "Unfinished Symphony", to an anchor on the right-hand wall. Continue rapping down to an anchor using 1 bolt and a thread. From this anchor rap to the ground ending right of where you started.
Rap using 2 ropes.
Pitch 2: Climb up the chimney clipping 1 protection bolt and follow the crack to a bolted belay at a small ledge, 5.9+.
Pitch 3: Continue up the obvious crack above. Belay at bolts, below an obvious OW. 5.10a
Pitch 4: Climb the short offwidth making face moves at its top. Continue up the obvious crack system to a ledge on the right. Continue up the wide crack (on the left), until you can traverse left to a seam in a varnished face (about 10ft). You're aiming for a bush with a small stance behind it. Belay at this stance on gear. 5.10d.
Pitch 5: This pitch looks more challenging than it is. Use face and crack holds throughout. Where the crack flares into a narrow v-corner, climb up to but not into the white rock. Look right for the belay, bolts and chain painted red.5.8.
This route is VERY good, and should become a classic!
Descent:
From the anchor at the top of the fifth pitch, rappel back to the midway ledge of pitch 4. Traverse about 20ft right to another rap anchor. Next rap down into the chimney. You've now begun rapping the route "Unfinished Symphony", to an anchor on the right-hand wall. Continue rapping down to an anchor using 1 bolt and a thread. From this anchor rap to the ground ending right of where you started.
Rap using 2 ropes.
Location
Follow the main trail into Ice box canyon until it drops into the drainage. Go about 100ft up the drainage until you can cut up right(south) on small trails thru the brush. When you come to a rock wall(pedestal) traverse up and around left until you can scramble across a ledge at the top of the pedestal. Start off the right side of this ledge. You cannot see the first bolt until you are about 10 ft up.
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