Type: Trad, 650 ft (197 m), 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Jorge and Joanne Urioste
Page Views: 14,844 total · 72/month
Shared By: J. Thompson on Apr 11, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Pitch 1: Start up the perfect varnished face passing 4 bolts and belaying from bolts at the base of the obvious chimney, 5.8. Note that the Jerry Handren guide image shows the line through the white patch. The bolts are to the right of this feature and some gear is available between bolts.

Pitch 2: Climb up the chimney clipping 1 protection bolt and follow the crack to a bolted belay at a small ledge, 5.9+.

Pitch 3: Continue up the obvious crack above. Belay at bolts, below an obvious OW. 5.10a

Pitch 4: Climb the short offwidth making face moves at its top. Continue up the obvious crack system to a ledge on the right. Continue up the wide crack (on the left), until you can traverse left to a seam in a varnished face (about 10ft). You're aiming for a bush with a small stance behind it. Belay at this stance on gear. 5.10d.

Pitch 5: This pitch looks more challenging than it is. Use face and crack holds throughout. Where the crack flares into a narrow v-corner, climb up to but not into the white rock. Look right for the belay, bolts and chain painted red.5.8.

This route is VERY good, and should become a classic!

Descent:
From the anchor at the top of the fifth pitch, rappel back to the midway ledge of pitch 4. Traverse about 20ft right to another rap anchor. Next rap down into the chimney. You've now begun rapping the route "Unfinished Symphony", to an anchor on the right-hand wall. Continue rapping down to an anchor using 1 bolt and a thread. From this anchor rap to the ground ending right of where you started.
Rap using 2 ropes.

Location Suggest change

Follow the main trail into Ice box canyon until it drops into the drainage. Go about 100ft up the drainage until you can cut up right(south) on small trails thru the brush. When you come to a rock wall(pedestal) traverse up and around left until you can scramble across a ledge at the top of the pedestal. Start off the right side of this ledge. You cannot see the first bolt until you are about 10 ft up.

Protection Suggest change

SR to a #4 Camalot. Possibily extra #2 and #3.

Photos

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