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A Different School of Thought
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British PG13
Avg: 3.7 from 3
votes
Routes in South End
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A Different School of Thought T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Birds of Prey T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Blood On The Tracks T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Candy Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Daydream, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Dracula (aka Dracula Beach) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Dracula Direct T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Drop Zone T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Ecstasy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fine Young Cannibals T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13 |
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La Bella Vista T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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La Bella Vista: Lotus variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Lower Skyline Direct (LSD) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Muscle Beach T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Nightwings T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Satisfaction 2 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1 PG13 |
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Shambler, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Simple J Malarkey T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sixth Sense T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Southern Exposure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Southwest Buttress Variation T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Spinnaker S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Superstition T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Tony's Nightmare T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Tony's Nightmare Direct Finish T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Totem T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Welcome to Seneca T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Wild Men Only T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Ye Gods & Little Fishes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Massey Teel, Seth Pettit 2011 |
| Page Views: | 2,222 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Massey Teel on Aug 11, 2011 |
| Admins: | Andy Weinmann, Pat Goodman |
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Description
P1: Climb the ramp to the roof (optional 5" piece), traverse left to the corner and continue directly up corner through a series of roofs and bulges (crux). Once the angle backs off trend left through the next roof, continue up the corner. Traverse right to the bolts at the top of the second pitch of Muscle Beach. (150' 5.10+)
P2: Move up then trend left to the arete. Follow the arete up through a final bulge at the top, ending just right of Ecstasy. (5.7 50')
The first pitch features very sustained climbing with some significant sections of questionable gear. Alot of loose rock was cleaned through multiple attempts but some still remains.
P2: Move up then trend left to the arete. Follow the arete up through a final bulge at the top, ending just right of Ecstasy. (5.7 50')
The first pitch features very sustained climbing with some significant sections of questionable gear. Alot of loose rock was cleaned through multiple attempts but some still remains.
Location
On the south end left of the cave. Look for a black ramp between the start of Sixth Sense and Muscle Beach. Either locate the cave rappel or hike to descend.
Protection
This route was established ground up with out the use of any fixed protection. No old pitons, or other signs of climbing were found on the route. The first pitch requires a large rack beyond the standard Seneca rack. Micro-nuts, nuts, tri-cams, single set of cams to 3", double to 1.5", extra slings, triple micro cams in the 1 to 2 TCU range would not go unused. Double ropes are useful for managing the drag and the loose rock. The first pitch shares the bolted station of Muscle Beach's 2nd pitch. The second pitch anchor is gear and natural features at the top of the cliff.
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