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Shiho
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Sep 30, 2011
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Dec 2010
· Points: 100
I've been wanting to climb Primrose Dihedrals for a long time and I got a really good partner for it. The problem is that my little '91 civic can't make it down to the climb. Has anyone done the 'rap-in' approach? Any beta?
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Todd Gordon
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Sep 30, 2011
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Joshua Tree, CA
· Joined Nov 2006
· Points: 10,806
I have;..it's no big deal....follow the directions from some guidebook.....you can camp at the top.....tie 2 ropes together, and rap in....and walk over to the climb.......do the climb...jumar out.......
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Shiho
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Oct 5, 2011
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Dec 2010
· Points: 100
Thanks todd for the beta. I called the ranger today and he told me that the road is open. However my friend told me that as of May 2011, 4 upper bolts are missing from the ear pitch. Can anyone confirm this info?
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Josh Janes
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Oct 5, 2011
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jun 2001
· Points: 9,954
You can hike in via the Alcove Spring TH. I've done it twice. It is 6 easy miles downhill to Moses and very enjoyable. On the return trip the last bit back to the car will help you earn your beers.
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Bill Duncan
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Oct 5, 2011
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Glade Park, CO
· Joined Mar 2005
· Points: 3,410
If you have a couple of extra large cams, the Ear may still be reasonable if the bolts are gone. They were spinners the last time I was there, and were "think body weight only..." kind of bolts.
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Shiho
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Oct 5, 2011
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Dec 2010
· Points: 100
Would a #6 Camalot fit in the crack? Or should I bring big bros?
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Shiho
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Oct 6, 2011
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Dec 2010
· Points: 100
Thanks John. A couple of people told me that a #6 would be too small for the crack. I guess we'll get up there and find out!
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Aaron Child
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Oct 7, 2011
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Pleasant Grove, UT
· Joined May 2008
· Points: 335
I brought a #6 and it was way too small. I also brought a #4 Bigbro, and that was too big. The bolts are a little creepy. You probably don't want to whip on 'em. Good luck
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Shiho
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Oct 10, 2011
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Dec 2010
· Points: 100
Aaron Child wrote:I brought a #6 and it was way too small. I also brought a #4 Bigbro, and that was too big. Thanks for the beta! A #3 bigbro should fit, then! (I really hope so.)
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ben jammin
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Oct 11, 2011
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Moab, UT
· Joined Jul 2008
· Points: 852
Hey! let us know if the bolts are still there and what condition.. or if you can use a 6.. doesn't seem to be a consensus. Good luck have fun!
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Tim M
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Oct 11, 2011
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none
· Joined Sep 2008
· Points: 293
last bolt gone. 6 too small.
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Shiho
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Oct 12, 2011
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Dec 2010
· Points: 100
I borrowed a #3 bigbro for the ear pitch. I'll let you all know how that fits in the crack.
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Zac Robinson
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Oct 12, 2011
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Salt Lake City, UT
· Joined Jul 2006
· Points: 415
sounds like a valley giant would be ideal
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Shiho
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Oct 12, 2011
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Dec 2010
· Points: 100
Zac Robinson wrote:sounds like a valley giant would be ideal Do you have one of those? If you do, I'd be happy to bring it up to the ear pitch and test it out... Or do you know someone who has one and is willing to let me use? BTW, I may still want your #4 bigbro, too, just in case. JK has a can of Cobra that got your name all over in the fridge if you help me out on this epic climb...
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M L
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Oct 12, 2011
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Sonora, CA
· Joined Apr 2007
· Points: 165
I'd be interested to know what fits. Also if there are any open bolt holds you could tie a stud off to for yardin' through. I tried to bring my wife up...let's just say the ratings are bit stiff. We did the NF of Castleton and Fine Jade a few days before and those felt like walk-ups in comparison.
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rob rebel
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Oct 12, 2011
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Bend, OR
· Joined Jan 2006
· Points: 5
Not having the last bolt will make it an even scarier pitch. I remember the bolt holes being huge and thinking how do those bolts stay in there. Good luck. This is my favorite tower! The summit is amazing! edit: #4 camlot is really helpful for the first pitch.
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john strand
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Oct 12, 2011
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southern colo
· Joined May 2008
· Points: 1,640
About the best hard route in the desert- Layback the "wide" section. your gonna be frightened either way and suck in a #6 to calm your nerves Such an awesome line
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Shiho
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Oct 17, 2011
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Dec 2010
· Points: 100
Finally did this route. There still are four bolts on the 'ear' pitch. The upper two bolts are missing. A #3 bigbro fits nicely in the crack if you want to protect the upper section of the ear. We didn't see any fixed gear on the direct start as of 10/16/11. Cheers! Shiho
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Rich Farnham
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Oct 18, 2011
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Nederland, CO
· Joined Aug 2002
· Points: 297
What was the condition of the bolts? Are they newer, or scary old ones half-hanging out of the rock? And as for the BigBro, were you able to place that thing while laybacking (impressive), or were you stuffed inside the crack at that point? Thanks, and congrats on the route!
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Shiho
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Oct 18, 2011
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Dec 2010
· Points: 100
I think the condition of the bolts was fine. We placed a bigbro while OW climbing. What an amazing route! My partner and I thought that Sisyphus on Zeus was even better, though. So get on both of them while you are there!
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M L
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Oct 18, 2011
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Sonora, CA
· Joined Apr 2007
· Points: 165
could you fit a (removable) stud for french freeing in the empty bolt hole?
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