Roped climbing at Hueco better than the bouldering -Yes -No

I have been to Hueco about 10 times for 7 to 10 days per. Lucky for me Mike Head was still going there and we climbed together some . The Hankster was just a boy . Mike also gave me all the beta I could absorb on many routes. For me personally I enjoy the nature of the routes at Hueco. Somewhat runout or bold style type climbing really suits me. Although I have done lots of bouldering there and had a blast I really think the roped routes are my favorite part of the Tanks. I am curious who else favors the routes there compared to the boulders ?? Or am I the last dinosaur ??

I had 3 trips there in the early 90's when I was in School. I spent about 80% of the time climbing on ropes on North Mountain and the other 20% of the time bouldering. I thought the roped climbing was more interesting then the bouldering and so overlooked. I never had to wait in line for anything while you could look down and see 20 people standing around the same problem spraying beta at eachother. Almost always had the face to ourselves and the routes are as good as any boulder problem there, just longer and a bit more exciting. The sport routes that were there never felt sporty, and the trad climbing was just as spectactular.

I have not been back since the mid 90's or so , I feel that with all the wonderful places to climb in the world, I have lost the interest to go some place where I need to make a reservation to climb. It's kind of a shame the way it is now, but that's a good thing I guess if it keeps all the pebblers there for the winter.

I did some of my earliest trad climbing at Hueco Tanks so I'll always have a soft spot for some of the routes there. 1st lead on 1st pitch of Uriah's Heap, scared silly following Indecent Exposure, trying to gain some sack to get up to the first bolt of Malice, and finding my first booty on Fox Tower.

But to answer the question.... No, not even close.

I remember my first trip to Hueco Tanks. After calling in sick to work and driving all night from Austin we set our eyes on 'Indecent Exposure' for our first route in the park. As I was too poor to buy a guide book at the time (wasn't working enough hours for some reason) , we scanned the one in the park HQ when we needed some beta. After a few false starts (Rainbow Bridge, etc. ), we finally found the right route on day two. (after getting a stern lecture from the ranger about no alcohol in the park 'Sir, those were empties in the back of the truck we moved to the picnic table so we could go to sleep in the truck bed')
Ahhh. Such a fun lead for a fresh 5.10- climber.

So to answer your question, I like doing both in the park, depending on my mood and the weather.

The bouldering is obviously superb stuff, but I'm another one of those who just prefers leading run-out 10c. Kevin, you can put me on your team.

Optical Promise is for sure one of the most -Out there pitches in the U.S. No doubt. Deliverance , Eternal Apples , Amplified Heat , Dos xx's , Final Stone , Dungeons , Pigs to Pork , Stardust , Tarts , Window Pain , Walking on the Moon , Rainbow Bridge............ Awesome climbs unique and exciting . On another note- You can find a pebble in almost every county in the country....... even World class bouldering ...is still just bouldering. Routes like you find in Hueco are rare. I'll take the longer , more disciplined , sustained mental test that the rope provides . Anyone can pull hard and then fall on a pad..... not everyone can pull hard at the top end of a long runout . Simply my opinion..... so before you throw your beanie on the ground to vent----- we all have our own ways to enjoy The Tanks .

Pinklebear wrote:I'm with you, Kevin. Many good memories of leads early in my climbing career on North, East, and West Mountains. Did you ever do Dungeons and Dragons, in that deep, dark chasm? That was a trippy, trippy climb.... The Front Side routes are excellent, and the sport-style pitches throughout the park are without peer -- Tarts, Walking Spanish, Secret Sharer, Stardust, Legends....! Classic topropes like Plastic Fantastic, Hueco Cranks, Wyoming Cowgirl... The list goes on. The boulders are great, too, but they're only one-half of the story.

Hank , I remember watching you solo Gold Rush - I think you were 16- already blurring the line between sanity and just havin' fun. Whee!