Still top secret?

Has anyone disclosed or discovered exactly where this area is in NM?

climbing.com/photo-video/ga…

The combination of keeping their area a "secret" while simultaneously publishing all those photos in Climbing seems pretty lame to me. If you want to keep an area secret for a while to do some FA's or whatever that's fine... but publishing a few dozen photos and bragging about how easy the access is and how much rock there is smells of ego-stroking. i.e. "You will never get this!"

If I was the editor I would refuse to publish their pics unless they disclosed the area.

Edit: Apologies for using your question as a soapbox. Obviously, I have no clue about the area.

then one day he broke out of his cage, and he got this...

it isn't often you can use metaphors from borat.

cjdrover wrote:The combination of keeping their area a "secret" while simultaneously publishing all those photos in Climbing seems pretty lame to me. If you want to keep an area secret for a while to do some FA's or whatever that's fine... but publishing a few dozen photos and bragging about how easy the access is and how much rock there is smells of ego-stroking. i.e. "You will never get this!" If I was the editor I would refuse to publish their pics unless they disclosed the area. Edit: Apologies for using your question as a soapbox. Obviously, I have no clue about the area.

Understood...soapbox may be appropriate here.

I seem to remember seeing some vague directions online somewhere a year or two back when i came across those photos for the first time. They call this area Roy, but i say we call it "my sister's vagine"

A bit of research and directions aren't that hard to find. See directions pasted below, would love a trip report if anyone makes the trek

granitlife.com/uncategorize…
(some photos, looks badass)

Roy is not an established, crowded area. It may never be... There is no guidebook, a lot of hiking and adventure, and no real amenities of a close by town. Roy is not Joe's, Hueco or Bishop. In fact, only full-time lifer's and lovers of our craft will appreciate Roy. There is choss and good rock, like anywhere else. This place is good, but no Mecca. There are 4 star lines, occasionally, but Roy is about hanging out and developing a good local area in a pristine and unusual natural setting. Before I get into the trip report and stories/photos/video, let me state the ground rules for Roy and the local ethic:

1. NEVER cross barbwire fences. All areas are accessible by foot although many hikes are extensive. The area around Roy is a mix of public and private land and if you cross a fenced area, you threaten everyone's continued access and your own life. Local landowners can shoot you. Seriously. Furthermore, there is a ranger that has loyalties to the land, the law, and homeowners.

2. All Access rules apply: leave no trace, cut no trails, no chipping. Take photos, leave footprints, etc.

3. Be respectful of others and the environment. Roy is just as much about being "out there" as it is about climbing.

In terms of the rock climbing, Roy is pretty diverse. You will find every type of hold and angle of climbing, from roofs, to bandering, to slabs to everything else. The lines are generally not quite as striking as South Africa, but the rock is generally good and occasionally exceptional bullet hard Dakota Sandstone. If you are a world traveler, you will love Roy. If you mostly make the circuit from Joe's/Bishop/Hueco, you may find that Roy is a waste of your time. There are no truly difficult lines yet. There does seem to be potential for harder lines, but currently grades are up to about V9. There are many sectors to explore, but no guidebook--purposefully. Locals will gladly show newcomers around, but most people begin their adventuring around Mills Canyon Road, North of Roy Proper, and West of Hwy 39 by about 4 miles. Without many trees to obscure boulders, Google Earth is a valuable tool to locate potential areas. Occasionally, these areas yield sub-par rock, but the best areas are super fun for sure. Here are some pics: Click to enlarge.

Sort of on topic, but. BASE jumpers are masters of keeping things a secret but blowing up youtube and everything else with videos and pics. It's hard for me to find to much fault for a climber doing the same. Really funny the more I think about it.

Normally I couldn't care less about tick marks, but those pics are disgraceful. 3 inch tick marks smeared all over the problems:
climbing.com/photo-video/ga…
I hope they are keeping it secret so they clean up after themselves once they nab the FA's.

cjdrover wrote:The combination of keeping their area a "secret" while simultaneously publishing all those photos in Climbing seems pretty lame to me. If you want to keep an area secret for a while to do some FA's or whatever that's fine... but publishing a few dozen photos and bragging about how easy the access is and how much rock there is smells of ego-stroking. i.e. "You will never get this!" If I was the editor I would refuse to publish their pics unless they disclosed the area. Edit: Apologies for using your question as a soapbox. Obviously, I have no clue about the area.

CJ, I couldn't disagree more. I love the idea that there is still wild climbing out there. If you meet the right people they will bring you there, if you explore you will end up there. If you hop on MP or go looking for a guide you will end up in Rifle. Articles like this make me want to go find my own unchalked boulders/routes. It is not about "you can't have this", it is the exact oposite, it is a "go find yours". Not everyone wants to follow footsteps; if you do then there are plenty of guidebooks to aimlessly follow.

Alex Whitman wrote: I love the idea that there is still wild climbing out there... Not everyone wants to follow footsteps; if you do then there are plenty of guidebooks to aimlessly follow.

Did I say anything at all about documenting all climbing areas? You are trying to argue against points I didn't make...

Secret areas are fine, though I find it a little silly. Spraying about your secret area... lame.

Pfffft.

We have our awesome, secret bouldering cave underneath the Third Flatiron that we will never share with anyone from Arizona. It has a free beer garden tended by gnomes, too. Top that.

If u guys have any q's I can ask my buddy about the place... he's in some of the photos on one of the blogsss

edit: I get the whole secret thing... that's how we do in CT when there are access issues - it just makes sense.

Morgan Patterson wrote:If u guys have any q's I can ask my buddy about the place... he's in some of the photos on one of the blogsss edit: I get the whole secret thing... that's how we do in CT when there are access issues - it just makes sense.

That would be cool...thanks Morgan.

All this about a effing bouldering spot? I thought some new climbing area had been developed. Move along people, nothing to see here.

LMAO!!

Climbing mag is recycling news form a handful of years ago and word for word.