Rapelling off a multi-pitched route.

Hey all,

I've recently started trad climbing this past year. So far I have a handful of single pitch and a few two pitch climbs under my belt. All of which I've been able to walk off the top. When topping out on a multi pitch climb where I must rappel back down how would I do so with out losing my rope/a bunch of slings/carabiners? I've read a handful of trad climbing books and talked with some folks at the gym. Just curious if anyone has any insite for me on this matter. thanks

Rappelling typically requires leaving something behind. Ideally this would be a permanent anchor that has been placed by someone else before you ever climbed the route. Rappel anchors commonly found on routes could be a couple bolts and rings, or simple natural anchors like a sling around a tree with rappel rings. But in a worst-case scenario, like if you need to bail mid-way up a pitch, you may need to build a gear anchor to rappel from and leave behind. Losing gear would be a small price to pay compared to the consequences of a skimpy anchor. It's a good idea to carry a small supply of webbing and a couple "leaver-biners" to supplement worn-out descent material.

Check a guidebook or Mountain Project for descent beta. You should have this information before starting a route. You should know about which rappel anchors to use and what length rope is needed to get down. Sometimes you need two ropes tied together for extra length.

And on an issue related to multi-pitch rappelling, pay close attention to how you pull your rope down. Getting a rope stuck often leads to people getting stranded on routes because they cannot continue their descent. Organized and efficient rope management is important.

Some places may have one or two designated 'rap route' where all summit climbers gather to rap off. Permanent bolts and chains usually in place at 150' or less rope lengths from older days.

carry a bit of cheap nylon webbing or cord if you dont know the rap route

also a few old cheap biners on your harness instead of the shiny new ones you use at the crag

for the more adventurous stuff ... bring a few old nuts as well

if you dont have cheap stuff ... climb more so you can get booty ... or just buy some el cheapo biners/nuts (not webbing or cord) used

awesome. thanks a lot for the input everyone.

>multi-pitch route

This often means you need to make more than one rappel.

From the top of the climb:

1. find/build a solid anchor and rig your rope for rappel. For simplicity I assume you have a single rope. The midpoint of the rope should be at your anchor so you have two strands hanging down. The rope is simply passed through a rap ring or 'biner, not tied to the anchor. Run both strands through your rappel device; you'll apply equal friction to both strands so the rope doesn't slide through the 'biner while you rappel. As noted above, be careful to toss your rope in a way that it doesn't get stuck on trees, in cracks, etc.

2. Rap down until you are almost out of rope. (You tied knots in the ends of your ropes, right? Imagine what happens if you keep rapping past the end of your rope.)

3. find/build a solid anchor.

4. tie yourself to your new anchor. (A sling or PAS is good, or you can use one end of the rope if you don't do it in a way that makes the next steps impossible)

5. Signal your partner to rap down to you. When he arrives, have him tie in to your new anchor.

6. Pull one end of the rope so the rope runs through the anchor (and eventually down to you). (Another visualization exercise: what happens if the rope comes down fast and it's not tied to anything? Also, what if there's still a knot in the end and that knot gets stuck at the anchor above?)

7. Set up the rope for rappel, and go to #2 (unless you're already on the ground).

EDIT: This has all been written before, notably here:
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Being in search and rescue I might add when you are ready to 'rap " off a multi pitch route first check the O rings and webbing making sure the O ring has not thin out any in many years of use. When the first climber raps have him pull the rope a few feet in making sure that the rope will pull easy, if it does not than the climber on top can adjust before rapping. Many climbers get stuck on the next ledge because they did not test the rope by pulling it a few feet and rap and cannot pull the rope down because it is stuck. I have rescued many climbers stuck on a multi pitch routes because they did not test the rope by trying to pull the rope to check if the rope will slide easy before they committed themselves in rapping and than not able to continue down a wall because the rope got stuck pulling the rope down becuse the anchor was not adjusted correct or rope became stuck in a crack.

Look for zipline. It's the only way usually.