Type: | Sport, 135 ft (41 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | P1 Equiped by D. Montgomery, FA, D. Montgomery & S. Benedict, 8-28-10, P2 Equiped & FA by Eric Schmeer and Bruno Haché |
Page Views: | 8,113 total · 49/month |
Shared By: | Monty on Aug 28, 2010 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures/CDOT Road Work
Details
Please be aware of the annual raptor seasonal closures!
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Sundays: 7PM-4AM
Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Sundays: 7PM-4AM
Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM
Description
Sooo, you know that route Rosy Crucifixion.... Well, the CCC has got its own version now!
This is one of the most unique pitches I've climbed in CCC, guaranteed to put a smile on your face.
Link the first 2 pitches of Solid Gold to the large belay ledge.
Climb 50 feet of the 3rd pitch of SG. Bust right to start up Playin' Hooky. Belay on the ledge with the intermediate rap station in the middle of the PH slab.
Creekafixion P1 5.11, 80 feet. The Money Pitch! Start from the rap station in the middle of the PH slab. Climb up the slab for 4-5 bolts then angle up and left to 2 bolts leading up to the giant roof on the left side of the slab. Stem the dihederal and begin tip-toeing out over the massive roof. A sequence of underclings, crimps and tenuous smearing past 3 more bolts will deposit you at a 2 bolt belay. Wild!
From here, you can either rap back to the midway belay on Playin' Hooky, or top out via two different 5.11 options.
It is possible to link both pitches but not recomended since you will not be able to hear or see your partner during the crux traverse.
P2 5.11-, 60 feet. The original finish was to step right off the belay, mantle on to a sloping ledge, and follow a crumbly corner feature to the top, but with the recent addition of Golden Hammer, you now can take that routes fourth pitch to the top for a much more classic finish in the 11+ range.
Descent: Several rap options exist. The best option is from the anchor on top of Spun Gold to the Playin' Hooky anchor in the middle of the slab, then down Solid gold from there. Or top out completely and walk over to the Solid Gold raps, or 4th class scramble down to the raps for Playin' Hooky.
This is one of the most unique pitches I've climbed in CCC, guaranteed to put a smile on your face.
Link the first 2 pitches of Solid Gold to the large belay ledge.
Climb 50 feet of the 3rd pitch of SG. Bust right to start up Playin' Hooky. Belay on the ledge with the intermediate rap station in the middle of the PH slab.
Creekafixion P1 5.11, 80 feet. The Money Pitch! Start from the rap station in the middle of the PH slab. Climb up the slab for 4-5 bolts then angle up and left to 2 bolts leading up to the giant roof on the left side of the slab. Stem the dihederal and begin tip-toeing out over the massive roof. A sequence of underclings, crimps and tenuous smearing past 3 more bolts will deposit you at a 2 bolt belay. Wild!
- DON'T use a Guide or Reverso in auto-block mode. If your second falls, you will have a very hard time unlocking the device.
From here, you can either rap back to the midway belay on Playin' Hooky, or top out via two different 5.11 options.
It is possible to link both pitches but not recomended since you will not be able to hear or see your partner during the crux traverse.
P2 5.11-, 60 feet. The original finish was to step right off the belay, mantle on to a sloping ledge, and follow a crumbly corner feature to the top, but with the recent addition of Golden Hammer, you now can take that routes fourth pitch to the top for a much more classic finish in the 11+ range.
Descent: Several rap options exist. The best option is from the anchor on top of Spun Gold to the Playin' Hooky anchor in the middle of the slab, then down Solid gold from there. Or top out completely and walk over to the Solid Gold raps, or 4th class scramble down to the raps for Playin' Hooky.
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