It's about time! Thanks, Matt!

There's an old partially bolted project in this vicinity that we started a long time ago. Please feel free to finish/modify it if you wish. It would be a good idea to check out the integrity of the stone as we didn't do a lot of cleaning on that one. I think it may be the black line.

Matt just cleaned, chalked, and added bolts, and it is the black line.

I'll be interested to learn what the route comes in at & it's good to see folks still interested in doing excavation, I mean route development in CCC.

Yeah, thanks for the go ahead on the black line, it's cleaning up but still a little exciting. Right now the route is stopping me with a 10 foot section of hard rock climbing, 90 percent of the route is fun 5.11 ish climbing, but the crux is weighing in at around V8/9 making it 5.13/13+ to a 5.12 roof to a V4 mantel.... Anyway, if anyone wants to get on it, it's open and I would love to see it climbed. I will add photos and beta soon so you can get a closer look.

There is more to bolt and climb up here if anyone is motivated... email me with any questions. Thanks for the encouragement, Darren. Always nice when the MP community is psyched and supportive, climbing new routes is hard, tiring and expensive, but ooooh so worth it for psyched friends and climbers.

Have you guys been trying that black line project from the ground. I ventured up there the other day to scope it and found the bottom to the first bolt about as chossy as it gets, and I don't typically scare from "some" choss. I bailed but thought the top bit you're talking about looked pretty cool. I also thought about traversing in from Idiot Savant with some slings, looks doable. I'd like to know if I was just being overly cautious when dinner plates of rock were coming out in my hands headed to the first bolt, or there is a better/safer/saner way to go about it. Thanks and nice job on the new additions, those seemed to clean up nice and were pretty fun to climb on.

Adam,

I have been trying the black project from the 11 to the left the traverse is pretty safe (I have drilled a bolt hole but have yet to add the hanger that will make it super chill). The original start to the black line is death, like you discovered. I find the 11d to be good intro climbing and more enjoyable. If you go back up there, let me know what you figure out. I have yet to stick the crux.

Matt

I was thinking of getting on that one too. Maybe I will next time I'm out, but thanks for the heads up on the traverse in. Have either of you tried the orange one??

I have climbed on the orange one, after some research it is probably an unfinished Matt Sammet route. I have added anchors, and there is a fixed line hanging down the route.... It's actually pretty clean with a lot of good climbing... however no bolts. It has a couple fixed nuts and good cam placements,....

Orange isn't my route, no. Not sure who started sussing it. Maybe Kurt Smith, Mike Pont, or Alan Nelson? I've actually never put up any pitches in CCC — Matt Samet

The orange line might be called Idiot's Roof, .12c, by Kurt Smith, 1990.

I agree with Derek. Matt L, did you get my reply?

I did, thanks Darren. It was a slip up, I mixed up to prolific climbers, sorry guys... I meant Kurt Smith.

Update 4/15/12:

As of today I, have cleaned up "Idiot's Roof" and climbed it, it weighs in at 5.11c/d-ish, and it's actually a lot of fun (without the loose rock that plagued it before).

I bolted another pitch that climbs from the anchors of "Idiot's Roof" to the top of the wall, a must do 5.10+ dubbed "Everyday Struggle". It is about 50 feet but sustained and continuos.

I have also bolted a line that climbs through the giant, ominous, 12 foot roof about 10 feet right of " Idiot's Roof". It is about 80 feet tall and probably weighs in at around 5.13- ish. It is "red tagged", so hands off for now, but I should send soon. This is the best route I have ever bolted with clean rock and steep, gymnastic climbing, so keep your eyes peeled for a masterpiece.

I am thinking about adding two bolts below the roof, so that it can be climbed at 5.11+, in case 5.13 isn't your thing.... It's really fun steep climbing on jugs.

Update 4/18/12:

The project through the roof is done, it's called Machine Gun Funk, 5.13a.

I have also added anchors with Jose Rodriguez for another line that climbs straight up from the anchors of "Head Up Dirty" and "Ghetto Activity". This route will need a bunch of scrubbing but looks like it will come in at 80 feet of 5.10... pretty nice addition.

The old project on the far right needs too much love right now, lots of loose rock has deterred me for now... but who knows in the future? If anyone has the desire, go nuts.

Ok, so work has begun up here again. I needed a break. I have finished equiping the black project on the far right of the wall. I also added a new start which climbs on better rock.
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Appreciate the work, Matt. Is the black route open for business or tagged?

Yeah, the black line which I have started calling the "Life After Death" project is open, I cleaned it and added some bolts and my draws are on it ... but it's open. Anyone should and could try it. Just let me know if you send it. That way I can stop trying it like a maniac.

Right on, maybe I'll see you up there sometime.

The black line has gone, it's 13 b/c with mostly easy climbing to one hard crux. Life After Death.