Hi I'm an experienced climber as a follower but I've just started leading, I've lead 8 climbs in the last 20 or so days. The hardest one I lead was crescent crack 5.7, even though I felt like schoolroom 5.6 was the same grade besides crescent crack's offwidth (that was a bitch, pulled my groin, frustrating 5.8 move for sure). Anyways I'm wondering if anyone has some advice on what I should lead next? Some good climbs that around the same or a little higher difficulty. I can do 10's in the gym no big deal but starting out doing trad I heard it's best to lead 2 grades below what you can climb. Any suggestions would be deeply appreciated! Thanks!
Bushwhack Crack and Callitwhatyouplease in LCC are both 5.8, right next to each other, and really fun.
Satan's Corner is a hard but classic 5.8. Pentapitch is great. Sasquatch is an awesome finger crack on the Pentapitch buttress and protects well, though it might be a little bit harder than you want at 5.9+.
try red light district at the s curve. it is not terribly good and is plenty exciting. I only reccomend it because it was my first lead and scared the piss out of me. However, I felt much more confident on subsequent climbs.
For real though, the green a gulley is packed with routes that would be good to do right away and others to aspire to. Perhaps, Touch Up, Cranial Profylactic, Gordons Hangover, The Green A, barefoot in barbados, etc. Read up on slab and crack technique ahead of time then these climbs will give you a chance to put just about every technique to use. Bushwack is not a terribly comfortable climb but it is great for learning hand jamming technique. Try taping your hands so you don't pull out because of the pain.
Anyway, good luck. SLC is a great area to learn to lead climb. You have so many classics to try and there are tons of fun new climbs that were not available 15 years ago when I was in your sitch.
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