J.B.
·
Sep 23, 2011
·
Unknown Hometown
· Joined Aug 2008
· Points: 150
TheBirdman wrote: I am curious though, what makes me a little hotheaded and prone to flying off the handle?
Big Butts? Babies that got back?
JoeP
·
Sep 23, 2011
·
Littleton, CO
· Joined Sep 2006
· Points: 0
johnL wrote: I've definitely called YOUR mom while onsighting. Does that count?
Depends if you had a her number saved on your phone. Can't be an onsight if you already knew her number...
slim
·
Sep 23, 2011
·
Unknown Hometown
· Joined Dec 2004
· Points: 1,103
i think that remembering to stop and look ahead when possible is a tough habit to form. i can relate to the question that you have. john has some good points though. redpointing harder route will help your onsighting.
TheBirdman wrote: My endurance is really good, my finger strength has never held me back, and my technique is pretty sound.
Tell us then, what "fails" when you fail to OS a route? Do your fingers involuntarily open? Can you work up into the crux only a few times after backing down? You're failing for SOME physiological reason. Maybe focus training on that aspect.
The only exception to this I can think of is if you think every problem can be solved with a dyno. Not sticking a real good dyno pretty much = failure, I guess without any underlying physiological shortcoming. But then, that would be your problem... thinking you can dyno all the cruxes.
Gunkiemike wrote: Tell us then, what "fails" when you fail to OS a route? Do your fingers involuntarily open? Can you work up into the crux only a few times after backing down? You're failing for SOME physiological reason. Maybe focus training on that aspect. The only exception to this I can think of is if you think every problem can be solved with a dyno. Not sticking a real good dyno pretty much = failure, I guess without any underlying physiological shortcoming. But then, that would be your problem... thinking you can dyno all the cruxes.
I don't think it's physiological as much as it's poor planning. If I use bad beta, 12a bumps up to 12+ really quick. My point was I have sufficient physical ability to onsight 12a if I use the correct beta.
JoeP
·
Sep 23, 2011
·
Littleton, CO
· Joined Sep 2006
· Points: 0
johnL wrote: I never claimed to have onsighted your mother.
That's because you aren't redpointing at a high enough grade. You simply need more mileage, but I'm not sure the hammock will help get you there. ;)
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