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Best crags for DENSE climbing and Mini-trax?

Original Post
Orphaned · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 11,560

I've been spending my time projecting. It's good. I like the way it makes me tingle. However, I haven't had any really hard high mileage days in.... well, ... maybe a couple years.

Armed with a minitrax, a 16ft stick clip, a gri-gri modified for soloing, and all day, where could I go to set up some muthafuckin mileage?

Sport or trad, I don't care. Ideally I'd like to find stuff I can walk around top and set up ropes for. I am realistic enough not to cry if I have to stick clip up some routes to set my fixed line, aid solo a route, or free solo an easy route to set up.

My goal, 8-13 routes in a day. Ideally long and sustained with cruxes above 30' (miniT sucks for low cruxes). Most routes between 5.11c and 12c. Outliers on both sides of that range are cool but not what I'm looking for.

I have no worries walking from one area to another or busting my ass to set up TR's. I do think that 3 separate areas would be the max I'd have the motivation to go to in a day, and most likely, 1 or 2. Same with aiding to set up a fixed line, a few times a day and after that, I'll want to drink.

I hope that there are some routes I can set a rap line up top and swing to which ever anchor I wanted next. Or stuff I can get to one anchor to another without killing myself.

Multipitch is cool too but I'm not going to fix a classic route so I bang out laps. That would be rude.

The entire front range is on. BoCan, Eldo, Flatirons, Golden, both Vrains, etc.

Off the top of my head, the only place I see this as remotely possible is to hit both quarry walls at Table and climb everything. What are some other ideas?

John Maurer · · Denver, CO · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 530

Turkey Rocks works well during the weeks for mileage. I've also had good days setting up long lines with 2-3 cords around Lumpy (plus pretty fun to check out some of the RX lines I'll never try otherwise, and get physical in some wide stuff) - though I've wanted to do the same on some of those sustained Platte lines.

I'm presuming you're okay with areas not sport-centered for this focus.

Kevin Stricker · · Evergreen, CO · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 1,197

Sunshine Wall, Brown Wall, Turkey Tail, Mission Wall, Rincon, Poe Buttress.

Stick clip?? Common John your getting soft, get back to your roots. What happened to the guy who used to aid solo Bishop crack with wooden aiders to burn some TR laps? Any of the above can easily get you to 1k feet without doing the same route more than twice, 70+m rope will make things more user friendly.

Rich Farnham · · Nederland, CO · Joined Aug 2002 · Points: 297

I bet you could have a pretty good time at Animal World. I've never been to the top of the crag, but I'd anticipate that having one rope that got you from some tree out to the bolts at the lip, and then another to drop down the routes would allow you to swing around to a few different things. Check out

. That's the left side of the wall. There are more around the corner to the right that you might be able to swing over to. Apparently Global Gorilla is 160' long, with multiple 5.11 and 5.12 cruxes (I haven't done the whole thing). And Hands of Destiny is right next to it for another long line.

Tom Rangitsch · · Lander, Wy · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 1,699

If your van is indeed down by the river in Cheyenne, you should think about going north to Fremont Canyon. Not in the front range, but very easy to minitrax and get on multiple pitches quickly since you are starting at the top. Not much of a scene, but no crowds either.

dan zika · · jax wy · Joined May 2009 · Points: 5

I always try to stop at fremont on my way down to frt range top rope heaven & hard crack what more could you ask for there will be hardly anyone there

Senor Gringo · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 20

Lost angel wall is a fine choice. Upper dream canyon, as a whole, is a great place for your requirements.

Brian Milhaupt · · Golden, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 860

+1 for Upper Dream canyon. I've top rope soloed up there quite a bit. Access is easy. Good two bolt anchors. Just lower to the end of your rope and climb 5.11 all day.

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103

john, how about river wall at button rock?

blakeherrington · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 1,123

Hike up bastille

Fix 70m atop Hairstyles

fix 30m or longer atop wide country

rap to the ground

climb wide country, interceptors, and or madam guillotine, then unclip and drop bottom rope.

Climb hairstyles&attitudes, outerspace, and that 5.11 to the right of outer space.

Scramble up ramp past base of the naked edge to belay atop the DG

Throw 70m down and climb the D-G, RP or Not to Be, Super Slab, and Vertigo

Be nice to folks actually leading the routes, and I think you're all set!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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