Petit Grepon

If i can scrape up the cash for plane ticket money, I'm hoping to get back out to the West here in a month or so and try a route on the Petit Grepon. Any advice for people who have done anything on it? Will it be icy at the beginning of October? I don't really have any experience alpine climbing, but i've done classic routes on the sundance buttress in Lumpy multiple times (Kor's Flake, Mainliner, Grapevine, etc.) I'm a solid 5.9 leader, most 9+, and very very shaky on 10a/b. I run about 40-50 miles a week for cardio.

I have very, very little ice/mixed experience (and i don't even own tools of any kind), so if involves anything like that i may have to wait until next summer unless the ice isn't all that difficult (again, that's where some advice would be helpful).

What size of rack? How crowded would it be if i attempt it on a Thursday or Friday? Best route to do?

Thanks guys.

Your going to be pushing it with weather for beginning October.

South facing so could be dry and plenty warm enough...or plastered with snow if we get a storm by then. It could be sweet with no one else there that time of year and plenty of sun on a beautiful day.

More beta: climbinglife.com/petit-grep…

Enjoy!
E

Was at Sky Pond yesterday and the temps were below 50 degrees in the shade at 10 a.m. In the sun the temps were 60 or so. A team was rocking the route but I bet they had puffy jackets on.

If you are coming into town for some alpine stuff at that time of year be prepared for anything and everything...............Could be nice. Could be mixed climbing with snow and ice.............BUT bring your puffy jacket, long johns, gloves and wool cap...........

go for it!

chances are you will have an enjoyable time. if it craps out,
go have fun somewhere else around here... or still go for it,
maybe bail, but you will still get great pictures, and a time
you will not forget about too quickly..(like that sport route)

Was on the Petit on Sunday =)
No puffy. Base layer, med weight longsleeve and a light windshell.
Temps were perfect in the sun, slightly chilly in the shade, but still quite pleasant.
In 1/2 a months time, could have just as nice of a day, or could be much colder/wetter, just depends on the weather at the given time.

BTW Scottie & David? on the Saber, If you see this shoot me a PM, I have a few pics of you guys.

I also have some photos of you guys climbing. I was climbing with Nate. Shoot me a message and I'll send you the pics.
Cheers

^^^ Is that the normal belay on that route? Looks like a few more feet gets you the ideal ledge.

sweet! Hopefully conditions hold I'll be up there in a couple weeks