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How good is Tennesse wall?

Original Post
Per Andersson · · Bern Switzerland · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 150

Just saw a guidebook for Tennesse wall, and was very surprised. I had never heard of the area before but the climbing looks amazing. I like steep and juggy climbing up to 5.9 or 5.10 depending on the area, preferably trad, and love roofs. Some of my favorite climbing areas are The Gunks, Mt Arapiles and Eldorado Canyon. Can anyone tell me how Tennesse wall compares to those areas (it looks pretty similar from what I see on the photos)? Is it worth going? I´ll only be able to visit for a few days, so the number of routes is not very important.

Thanks!

rock-fencer · · Columbia, SC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 265

i cant really say that t-wall has many tiered type roof climbs in the moderate range. That is better found at the RRG and NRG. It does however offer some very high gear climbing in the moderate range, and good hard sport as well. I'm in the SE and hit up the place at least once a season. Its a 5 hr drive for me. Be aware that it is closed certain days for hunting. Should be a post in the forum with the dates.

happy climbing

T

Tom Fralich · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 0

My wife and I went last year for a week and were VERY impressed. So impressed that we're going again for 2 weeks this year.

I climbed for 10 years in the Gunks and T-Wall is similar in a lot of ways, but mainly one-pitch climbs and with more straightforward pro (more vertical features). It's easy to do A LOT of routes in a day and I liked the easy lower-offs/rappels. We climbed mid-week and saw very few other climbers. The new guidebook by Robinson is awesome and we didn't have any problem identifying the routes we wanted to climb.

I've climbed in a lot of places and I think T-Wall is definitely a destination area. I found it much more enjoyable than NRG. I haven't been to RRG (not that interested in sport), so I can't compare there.

If you like the Gunks, you will love T-Wall. The weather can be a problem though

Kyle Stich · · San Mateo, CA · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 35

T-Wall is fantastic. It has plenty of routes that fit your description. I climb in a similar range (up to hard 10s), have been to T-Wall 6 or 7 times, climb 5-6 routes each visit, and have only repeated a few climbs. The weather is starting to cool down here, so T-Wall season is around the corner. Alot of folks like to hit the 50 degree mark, but I don't mind being a bit warmer. When are you going to be in town? Due to my school schedule, I am a Fri, Sat, Sun climber with the occasional weekday off. If you need a partner let me know.

Kyle

P.S. There are other threads or other websites that list the fall hunt dates. No climbing at T-Wall during hunts. Plenty of other spots that allow climbing though.

Jonathan Petsch · · Chattanooga, TN · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 45

Twall sucks.

Nick Stayner · · Wymont Kingdom · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 2,315

You're not going to be disappointed.

Ryan Williams · · London (sort of) · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,245

It ain't that good. The front range has all the best climbing... why would you ever leave?

American Dankster · · Chattanooga · Joined May 2010 · Points: 280
Boulderite: Let me see T Wall.
Obi-Wan: [with a small wave of his hand] You don't need to see this cliff.
Bouldertie: We don't need to see this cliff.
Obi-Wan: These aren't the routes you're looking for.
Boulderite: These aren't the routes we're looking for.
Obi-Wan: He can go about his business.
Boulderite: You can go about your business.
Obi-Wan: Move along.
Boulderite: I'll Move along... move along.
Per Andersson · · Bern Switzerland · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 150

Hahaha, seems like some very mixed reviews! I appreciate all the info. I guess I´ll have too go and make up my own mind about it some day. Jake: I´ll let you know when I´m going!

Per

Tom Caldwell · · Clemson, S.C. · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 3,623
John Wilder wrote:The biggest complaint is trying to figure out where you're at on the wall- you come in at the midpoint and it goes on forever in either direction with not much in the way of landmarks (kinda like the Gunks), so figuring out what you want to do and paying close attention to the guidebook is a good thing.
There is a new colored guide book out that eliminates getting lost. It has pictures of just about every face with general route lines indicated where the route goes. Well worth the investment if you plan to go there un-guided and stay for a while. It is far superior than the old Dixie Cragger, where getting lost is an issue.

T-Wall is a great place to climb, but you had better be a solid 5.9 climber or better to stay there for a while. The 7's and 8's often have a sandbagged start that is more like V0-1 and there aren't many below 5.8. If you are climbing 5.10 trad, you will have lots of fun and many routes to choose from. Most of it is just under vertical cracks and corners, with an few faces thrown in.
willeslinger · · Golden, Colorado · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 25

The Tennessee Wall is the best trad crag in the east. Go there for a week in oct/nov and tag along with one of the local hard men like Tyler Stracker, Kirk Brode, David Draper or Jim Arnold and they'll show you the best damn 100 feet of sandstone cracks you've ever climbed. I disagree about the area being sandbagged, it's sustained and vertical, but the 5.8's are 5.8's, if you can climb solid 5.10, you'll have a couple of months straight of 10+ pitch days on all new rock.

Camping at the T-Wall campground is, well, it's a campground on the river beside a backwoods bumfuck southern road, so yeah, it's an adventure. Come to town, stay at The Crash Pad for a couple of days and tell Dan, Max and Al that Psyched Will sent you and they'll make sure you have the best climbing trip of your life. Oh, and be sure to visit the Terminal Brewery, it's right down the street from the Crash Pad and you won't be disappointed with whatever you order.

Oh, and leave the tape gloves at home, they're unnecessary and a red flag that you "ain't from 'round these parts".

Tom Caldwell · · Clemson, S.C. · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 3,623
willeslinger wrote:I disagree about the area being sandbagged, it's sustained and vertical, but the 5.8's are 5.8's, if you can climb solid 5.10, you'll have a couple of months straight of 10+ pitch days on all new rock.
T-Wall isn't sandbagged if you don't count the start of the climb...
ANOTHER DELETED · · msprague beats old ladies up · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 10
AndrewMiller wrote:Boulderite: Let me see T Wall. Obi-Wan: [with a small wave of his hand] You don't need to see this cliff. Bouldertie: We don't need to see this cliff. Obi-Wan: These aren't the routes you're looking for. Boulderite: These aren't the routes we're looking for. Obi-Wan: He can go about his business. Boulderite: You can go about your business. Obi-Wan: Move along. Boulderite: I'll Move along... move along.
Well done sir, well done....
Peter Pitocchi · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 70

I think a moderate climber can find enough 5.7-5.8 stuff to keep you occupied. Also since its pretty much single pitch, not too ledgey and good pro its not too intimidating. Agreed there are no super-easy 5.6 type stuff but if you can lead 5.7 you'll find stuff to do. I would like to explore the left wall more now that I have the new guidebook.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern States
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