How good is Tennesse wall?
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Just saw a guidebook for Tennesse wall, and was very surprised. I had never heard of the area before but the climbing looks amazing. I like steep and juggy climbing up to 5.9 or 5.10 depending on the area, preferably trad, and love roofs. Some of my favorite climbing areas are The Gunks, Mt Arapiles and Eldorado Canyon. Can anyone tell me how Tennesse wall compares to those areas (it looks pretty similar from what I see on the photos)? Is it worth going? I´ll only be able to visit for a few days, so the number of routes is not very important. |
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i cant really say that t-wall has many tiered type roof climbs in the moderate range. That is better found at the RRG and NRG. It does however offer some very high gear climbing in the moderate range, and good hard sport as well. I'm in the SE and hit up the place at least once a season. Its a 5 hr drive for me. Be aware that it is closed certain days for hunting. Should be a post in the forum with the dates. |
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My wife and I went last year for a week and were VERY impressed. So impressed that we're going again for 2 weeks this year. |
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T-Wall is fantastic. It has plenty of routes that fit your description. I climb in a similar range (up to hard 10s), have been to T-Wall 6 or 7 times, climb 5-6 routes each visit, and have only repeated a few climbs. The weather is starting to cool down here, so T-Wall season is around the corner. Alot of folks like to hit the 50 degree mark, but I don't mind being a bit warmer. When are you going to be in town? Due to my school schedule, I am a Fri, Sat, Sun climber with the occasional weekday off. If you need a partner let me know. |
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Twall sucks. |
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You're not going to be disappointed. |
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It ain't that good. The front range has all the best climbing... why would you ever leave? |
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Boulderite: Let me see T Wall.
Obi-Wan: [with a small wave of his hand] You don't need to see this cliff. Bouldertie: We don't need to see this cliff. Obi-Wan: These aren't the routes you're looking for. Boulderite: These aren't the routes we're looking for. Obi-Wan: He can go about his business. Boulderite: You can go about your business. Obi-Wan: Move along. Boulderite: I'll Move along... move along. |
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Hahaha, seems like some very mixed reviews! I appreciate all the info. I guess I´ll have too go and make up my own mind about it some day. Jake: I´ll let you know when I´m going! |
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John Wilder wrote:The biggest complaint is trying to figure out where you're at on the wall- you come in at the midpoint and it goes on forever in either direction with not much in the way of landmarks (kinda like the Gunks), so figuring out what you want to do and paying close attention to the guidebook is a good thing.There is a new colored guide book out that eliminates getting lost. It has pictures of just about every face with general route lines indicated where the route goes. Well worth the investment if you plan to go there un-guided and stay for a while. It is far superior than the old Dixie Cragger, where getting lost is an issue. T-Wall is a great place to climb, but you had better be a solid 5.9 climber or better to stay there for a while. The 7's and 8's often have a sandbagged start that is more like V0-1 and there aren't many below 5.8. If you are climbing 5.10 trad, you will have lots of fun and many routes to choose from. Most of it is just under vertical cracks and corners, with an few faces thrown in. |
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The Tennessee Wall is the best trad crag in the east. Go there for a week in oct/nov and tag along with one of the local hard men like Tyler Stracker, Kirk Brode, David Draper or Jim Arnold and they'll show you the best damn 100 feet of sandstone cracks you've ever climbed. I disagree about the area being sandbagged, it's sustained and vertical, but the 5.8's are 5.8's, if you can climb solid 5.10, you'll have a couple of months straight of 10+ pitch days on all new rock. |
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willeslinger wrote:I disagree about the area being sandbagged, it's sustained and vertical, but the 5.8's are 5.8's, if you can climb solid 5.10, you'll have a couple of months straight of 10+ pitch days on all new rock.T-Wall isn't sandbagged if you don't count the start of the climb... |
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AndrewMiller wrote:Boulderite: Let me see T Wall. Obi-Wan: [with a small wave of his hand] You don't need to see this cliff. Bouldertie: We don't need to see this cliff. Obi-Wan: These aren't the routes you're looking for. Boulderite: These aren't the routes we're looking for. Obi-Wan: He can go about his business. Boulderite: You can go about your business. Obi-Wan: Move along. Boulderite: I'll Move along... move along.Well done sir, well done.... |
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I think a moderate climber can find enough 5.7-5.8 stuff to keep you occupied. Also since its pretty much single pitch, not too ledgey and good pro its not too intimidating. Agreed there are no super-easy 5.6 type stuff but if you can lead 5.7 you'll find stuff to do. I would like to explore the left wall more now that I have the new guidebook. |