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Coalpit Connection
5.10a/b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2 from 8
votes
Routes in Coal Pit Buttress
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Angering The Angered T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Buenaventura, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Coalpit Connection T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Direct North Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2- |
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Direct Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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DoggyStyle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fist of The North Star T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Gladiator T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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House of Cards T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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King Cobra Corner T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Lick Your Flint T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Man On the Moon T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Misunderstood T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Nanook of the North T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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One Time at Band Camp S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Organization for the Organized T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Precious Lost T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Refugees From Reality T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Shizznit T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Show Must Go On, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Snake Pit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Starting Point Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Stick Man S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Stiffler's Mom T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Stifflers Stiffy T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Stuck a Flute in My S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sumatra T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tony's Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | FKA: James Garrett and Phil Fell |
| Page Views: | 2,563 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | James Garrett on May 31, 2005 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Access Issue: Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse.
Details
Little Cottonwood Access Update
Despite "no trespassing" signs climbers have been observed crossing the creek on the pipe at the traditional (pumphouse) parking for the Pentapitch/Coalpit areas. This pipe crossing is dangerous and a slip could be fatal. This area is privately owned and the SLCA saltlakeclimbers.org has a positive relationship with the landowner.
The bridge near Lisa falls is the preferred location to cross the creek.
Down-canyon, the bridge leading to the south side near the Buzz bouldering area has been condemned by the Forest Service. Signs have been posted promising fines for tresspassers. We ask that you obey these signs and find an alternate route to your destination.
Despite "no trespassing" signs climbers have been observed crossing the creek on the pipe at the traditional (pumphouse) parking for the Pentapitch/Coalpit areas. This pipe crossing is dangerous and a slip could be fatal. This area is privately owned and the SLCA saltlakeclimbers.org has a positive relationship with the landowner.
The bridge near Lisa falls is the preferred location to cross the creek.
Down-canyon, the bridge leading to the south side near the Buzz bouldering area has been condemned by the Forest Service. Signs have been posted promising fines for tresspassers. We ask that you obey these signs and find an alternate route to your destination.
Description
CoalPit Buttress, Coalpit Connection, II, 5.10b, 4 pitches
Approach: Same as first two pitches of Precious Lost. approach as for this climb.
Pitch #1: Climb bolted slab of Precious Lost starting in the corner. 5.10
Pitch #2: small and ez roof move to "the jungle moves"...rather than go left up Sumatra, belay at the tree (now one fixed nut and piton). 5.7.
Pitch #3: Move right around a tree and corner arete to a very obscure "open book" corner which is guarded by a tree. A splitter finger crack ascends the left page of the book. The crack widens and go to the left belay ledge. 5.9.
Pitch #4: Climb the left facing corner crack out left and up, then eventually reaching an exit to the right, which is about 30 feet above the top pitch of Pentapitch. 5.9.
Descend: rap Pentapitch and walk back to the base.
Approach: Same as first two pitches of Precious Lost. approach as for this climb.
Pitch #1: Climb bolted slab of Precious Lost starting in the corner. 5.10
Pitch #2: small and ez roof move to "the jungle moves"...rather than go left up Sumatra, belay at the tree (now one fixed nut and piton). 5.7.
Pitch #3: Move right around a tree and corner arete to a very obscure "open book" corner which is guarded by a tree. A splitter finger crack ascends the left page of the book. The crack widens and go to the left belay ledge. 5.9.
Pitch #4: Climb the left facing corner crack out left and up, then eventually reaching an exit to the right, which is about 30 feet above the top pitch of Pentapitch. 5.9.
Descend: rap Pentapitch and walk back to the base.
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