Type: Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: James Garrett and Franziska Garrett, 31 May 2011 FFA: Peter Vintoniv and JG, 10 June 2011
Page Views: 3,590 total · 23/month
Shared By: James Garrett on Jul 4, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: Private Property now at the entrance to Bells Canyon. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

From the bivy platform (sheltered, shaded and nice lunch and rope up spot), walk east along the base of the Beast until reaching its lowest point. White colored compact granite similar to that found higher on the creature's face marks the spot.

Pitch #1: An easy bulge past a bolt leads to white rock steep slab past 4 more bolts to easier ground. Climb through fun horizontal sections past 4 more fixed pitons and bolts to a two-bolt belay. 5.9, 60m.

From this lower ledge, 3rd class past bushes straight up to gray rock under the white horned creature's neck. 30m

Pitch #2: Casual climbing past 1 bolt leads to a two-bolt belay at the Beast's neck. 5.6, 20m.

Pitch #3: Climb past 10 bolts through and above the left horn up very fun not so beastie moves to a two-bolt belay. 5.10b, 45m.

Pitch #4: Climb into the corners of the first roof. 1 piton, 1 bolt, and 1 thread protect the first beastly (pumpy!) bit and then continue up to a left veering hand crack under a steep roof to a bolt and then tip toe right to a two-bolt belay. 5.11a, 30m.

Pitch #5: Move right and around the corner and find easy ground to the top and a two-bolt belay. 5.5, 20m.

Walk off to the west gully.

Location Suggest change

Although the belays are bolted, most parties upon reaching the top may prefer to walk off to the north and follow a cairned western gully/trail back to the huge roofs sheltering the bivy platform at the feet of the Beast.

Protection Suggest change

QDs, set of C3s and Camalots to #3 and set of Nuts. A few shoulder slings helpful. Belays are bolted.

Photos

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