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fifi to bail...

Rocky_Mtn_High · · Arvada, CO · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 230
Jeffeos wrote:I'm a scared climber, always backing off of trad and sport routes (at least I always lead them). I put a sling through the bolt and then run my rope through the ends of the sling. The end of the rope that runs through first loops down to the ground and back up to the sling, where I tie it to the end of the sling. (three strands of the same rope dangling from the bolt) Proceed to rap. Then pull the cord out of the sling and everything fall to the ground. Nothing left behind and fairly safe. WuHa!
Jeffeos, on occasion, I've used the daisy chain method to rap down and retrieve all my gear; this method can be used farther up the route (does not require three strands to reach the ground), and it won't subject your sling to friction burns from pulling your rope through it, which I see is a significant drawback to your method.

Put half your rope through a runner, and put the runner through the anchor (ensure that the sewn section of the runner is on the rope side). Form a bight from one of the strands hanging from the sling, and run that bight through the other loop of the runner. Now form a bight on the other strand and feed that through the first bight loop. Yank on the first strand to tighten, and put a bight from that strand through the previous bight loop. Repeat with alternating strands about a half-dozen times to form a tight daisy chain, leaving the last loop a good 6" long. You can then weight one strand of the rope because it is cinched up tight against the last bight loop. Rap down the locked strand of the rope (after weighting and testing carefully to ensure you are rapping on the locked strand). Then retrieve the rope and your sling by pulling on alternate strands of the rope until the daisy chain pulls free. It's kind of freaky, but if you practice it beforehand from a test anchor, you'll see how it works.
Tim M · · none · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 293

+1 for what Jason said

Carl Sherven · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 210

Is leaving a biner that big of a financial burden? Is there something I'm missing here? A fifi hook to bail from a sport route? I've seen some other scary things done by people trying to save a biner or a nut. I just don't get why people are willing to seriously risk killing themselves to save a few dollars. What am I missing here?

John mac · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 105
Jeffeos wrote:I'm a scared climber, always backing off of trad and sport routes (at least I always lead them). I put a sling through the bolt and then run my rope through the ends of the sling. The end of the rope that runs through first loops down to the ground and back up to the sling, where I tie it to the end of the sling. (three strands of the same rope dangling from the bolt) Proceed to rap. Then pull the cord out of the sling and everything fall to the ground. Nothing left behind and fairly safe. WuHa!
I've used this method quite a bit, but recently had the realization that my life is worth more than a biner.

I still use it if I am only a few bolts up and a fall would not be too bad.
Carl Sherven · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 210
JLP wrote:How many letter grades out of your league do you have to be on a bolted sport route to have to leave a biner? Why is it the same people are using fifi hooks?
Sometimes it has nothing to do with difficulty. I can think of three times my group bailed because of something not related to climbing. Twice was because of weather; once was because someone was swarmed by bees and started reacting badly. One of those times we were on the warm-up route for the area.
Jacob Kantor · · Asheville, NC · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 30
Chris Plesko wrote: Just leave 2 biners. Your life has to be worth $5 right? And that's if you can't get them back some other way.

or 1 lol

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492
Jacob Kantor wrote:

or 1 lol

You revived an 8 year old thread to repeat something said in the first page??  Sheesh...

Eli 0 · · northeast · Joined May 2016 · Points: 5
Chris Plesko wrote: the thing with jamming 2 biners in a hanger is that it might kind of hose the next guy. the fifi trick isn't all that new. One biner each on 2 bolts. Or just one biner period on one hanger if you want to trust a single piece. Is it likely a bolt will break? Heck no. But personally if I'm bailing then I care a lot more about my life than I do about 2 leaver biners. And I've rapped off mank when I had no choice, that doesn't mean I want to do it again.

To safely bail off of one biner on one bolt, attach yourself to the belayer's strand with a friction hitch (or an appropriate hardware equivalent) as a backup. Slide the backup down as you clean to "take up" the loop of rope forming above you. If the top bolt blows, you'll potentially still be caught by your backup from the next-topmost bolt.


Helpful illustration:


Don't use a quick link as suggested by the image because that's a dick move. Just use a biner.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Sport Climbing
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