Best 5.5 in the Country?

Rich Farnham wrote:Anyone who can climb 5.5 can climb 5.6

Sure, if they're willing to project.

>Everyone can dream, rıght?

Rıch, holler. İ,m ın Turkey. Çan yöu teıı?

Upper Exum

Oh yeah. North Ridge of Table Rock, NC.

This one is pretty good too.

PTR wrote:How about Hawk (Trapps)? That second pitch will get your attention.

Thank god, some one has some sense around here when it comes to the Gunks. Horseman is a shit-walk compared to Hawk. In fact if the entire climb fell off the cliff and they scooped up all the rubble, then chopped into 3-foot rectangles and used it as a new set of stairs in a mobile-home/whorehouse in Nevada, it would be significant improvement.

So yeah, what PTR says: Hawk is awesome, Horseman, uhm, not so much...

Moran's CMC Route

3rd Flatiron in Boulder

I'd vote for Moran's CMC and Upper Exum on The Grand if they had more than a pitch or two of 5.5 climbing - they are mostly Class 4.

For consistent stellar climbing I vote for Ursula in the Gunks and Empress on Chapel Pond Slab.

Upper Exum or Owen-Spalding

You can't compare 5.5 in the Gunks to mountain 5.5's. Many of the Gunks 5.5 pitches would be graded 5.6 or 5.7 in a mountain context.

rgold wrote:You can't compare 5.5 in the Gunks to mountain 5.5's. Many of the Gunks 5.5 pitches would be graded 5.6 or 5.7 in a mountain context.

I was waiting for someone to say that. Word on the street, 5.5 Gunks is 5.9+ out here in the West.

+1 for the Great Arch of Stone Mountain! How could this not make one salivate?

Great Arch 5.5

Upper Exum and CMC on Moran are good routes, but nothing compared to the classic ridge climbs in the northwest:

In the US:
NE Buttress of Goode Mountain: 5.5, North Cascades
W Ridge of Forbidden Peak: 5.6, North Cascades
N Ridge of Forbidden Peak: 5.0 (but I think 5.5-5.6 is more accurate

In NW Canada:
NW Ridge of Mt. Sir Donald: 5.4, Southern Selkirk Range
W Ridge of Claw Peak: 5.6, Waddington Range

For Washington rock climbers, Midway on Castle Rock in Leavenworth may be the best 5.5 rock climb in the state. Three pitches of varied and interesting climbing, solid rock, great exposure and position above the Wenatchee River all combine to make a classic climb (not to mention the history of the climb as well). It was the first trad climb I seconded and when I went back to lead it, the step-across move from Jello Tower to the face definitely made my palms sweat!

Rob Rives wrote:+1 for the Great Arch of Stone Mountain! How could this not make one salivate?

Wow, never seen that image, that looks fantastic.

Well, this one is only 5.4 but you can easily make it 5.5 by choosing one of many possible lines. Really lots of fun, remote, great views!

Wham Ridge.

Jake D. wrote: Horseman is cool but P1 of Bloody Bush is one of my favorite pitches. overhanging jug haul on 5.5 with tons of gear.

I'm surprised no one has yet mentioned Jackie at the Gunks. Fun climbing and nice exposure.

As others have said, Great Arch at Stone Mountain is a memorable 5.5. So is its neighboring route, No Alternative.

JL

camhead wrote:technical climbing starts at 5.0 like astrophysics started with geocentrism.

Very good.

West Ridge on Pigeon Spire, 5.4, a classic climb in the Bugaboos.

Ok, it's 5.4 and in Canada, but good!

Best 5.5's

Mountains: Upper Exum, Grand Teton and CMC Face on Mt. Moran. The first climb tackles the range's high point up a climb steeped in history, the second climb involves a canoe/kayak approach, lakeside camping, and tons of fun easy rock.

Crags: I guess the Gunks rules here. Easy climbs are steep, clean, and well protected like Horseman, et. al. I'll throw in Thin Air at Cathedral Ledge (5.5 in old guidebooks) in New Hampshire, but also nod towards the west coast with Right On at Joshua Tree. At 4 varied and sometimes airy pitches, this little climb feels like a huge adventure.

DL

Not a 5.5, but a 5.8 would be Panic Point on Monkey Face in Smith Rocks. A true headspace pitch!