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Out to Lunch
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British PG13
Avg: 2.8 from 10
votes
Routes in Muralla Grande
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Clarks Cramps T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dire Straights T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Excitable Boys T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Excitable Boys Headwall Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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La Selva T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lawyers, Guns & Money T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Liar King T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X |
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Little Yellow Jacket T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Out to Lunch T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Rapture T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Second Coming, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Thunderbird T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Warpy Moople T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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| Type: | Trad, 800 ft (242 m), 7 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Doug Bridgers, Peter Prandoni, 1976, FFA: Doug Bridgers, Davito Hammack, Gary Hicks, 1979 |
| Page Views: | 2,234 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | George Perkins on Oct 18, 2010 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
This long and excellent climb goes up the center of Muralla Grande, passing the biggest obvious roof just to its left. It might be considered a major variation to Warpy Moople, as "Out to Lunch" shares the start with that route. This may be a small step up in seriousness from Sandia 5.10 classics like Yucca Flower Tower and Mtn Momma. Expect good rock and possibly some complicated route-finding on what is maybe the best 5.10 line on the cliff.
Pitch 1: The first 1+1/2 pitches are shared with Warpy Moople. Start at the highest pine tree below the big roofs. Follow a shallow right-facing corner straight above, then weave your way left then back right, then back left again to a belay on a grassy ledge (5.7, 130).
Pitch 2: Go up and right, undercling right past a roof, then go straight up passing a big flake. Move left to a ledge with a piton, belay. (5.9, 100).
Pitch 3: Climb above the ledge and work left to a belay ledge left of the biggest roof. This belay has a fixed pin and fixed nut (5.7, 90).
Pitch 4: This crux pitch is full-on Sandia wildness. Climb right and up a tricky right-facing corner passing a piton (a 2nd pin shown on the topo is missing in 2018). Clip a 1/4 bolt below a roof, make a thin traverse right 15 to a new bolt. Go straight up technical terrain with small knobs to a crack, then turn a small roof and step right to a 2-bolt belay. (5.10b, 110)
Pitch 5: (a) Traverse right and slightly downward 20, to a short hand crack (rejoining Warpy Moople, which traverses in from the right). Face climb, continuing up and right, sometimes with infrequent protection to a 2-bolt belay on a small ledge. (5.9, 120). (b) Or go straight up from the belay (see comment from John Kear below).
Pitch 6: Straight up from the belay to a fixed pin. Make one tricky move just past the fixed pin, traverse right, and go up to a grassy ledge. Angle up and left, first climbing past a small chimney, then along an easy left-trending ramp to a belay at another grassy ledge (5.8+, 160).
Pitch 7: Stem a weird dihedral off the belay; then straight up loose open corner to the top (5.8, 180).
There are other options from the belay after pitch 4, going straight up or to the left; one of those is probably the original route. Consult the guidebooks and see comment below.
Pitch 1: The first 1+1/2 pitches are shared with Warpy Moople. Start at the highest pine tree below the big roofs. Follow a shallow right-facing corner straight above, then weave your way left then back right, then back left again to a belay on a grassy ledge (5.7, 130).
Pitch 2: Go up and right, undercling right past a roof, then go straight up passing a big flake. Move left to a ledge with a piton, belay. (5.9, 100).
Pitch 3: Climb above the ledge and work left to a belay ledge left of the biggest roof. This belay has a fixed pin and fixed nut (5.7, 90).
Pitch 4: This crux pitch is full-on Sandia wildness. Climb right and up a tricky right-facing corner passing a piton (a 2nd pin shown on the topo is missing in 2018). Clip a 1/4 bolt below a roof, make a thin traverse right 15 to a new bolt. Go straight up technical terrain with small knobs to a crack, then turn a small roof and step right to a 2-bolt belay. (5.10b, 110)
Pitch 5: (a) Traverse right and slightly downward 20, to a short hand crack (rejoining Warpy Moople, which traverses in from the right). Face climb, continuing up and right, sometimes with infrequent protection to a 2-bolt belay on a small ledge. (5.9, 120). (b) Or go straight up from the belay (see comment from John Kear below).
Pitch 6: Straight up from the belay to a fixed pin. Make one tricky move just past the fixed pin, traverse right, and go up to a grassy ledge. Angle up and left, first climbing past a small chimney, then along an easy left-trending ramp to a belay at another grassy ledge (5.8+, 160).
Pitch 7: Stem a weird dihedral off the belay; then straight up loose open corner to the top (5.8, 180).
There are other options from the belay after pitch 4, going straight up or to the left; one of those is probably the original route. Consult the guidebooks and see comment below.
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