Best 5.5 in the Country?

I heard that there is a splitter crack that serves as a 5.6 direct start to the ultra classic Trough (5.0) at Tahquitz and may well be the best route in the world.

I don't know about "best in the country," but Solar Slab (5.6, 9 pitches) has my vote as one of the best I've done. Mathematically, though, 5.6 is different than 5.5. :) But close!

mountainproject.com/v/solar…

FrankPS wrote:I don't know about "best in the country," but Solar Slab (5.6, 9 pitches) has my vote as one of the best I've done. Mathematically, though, 5.6 is different than 5.5. :) But close!

Good job, Ryan. Is the 2% based on considering all the grades in Class 5 climbing? Regardless, I'm turning to you for my accounting and math needs. Do you prepare income tax returns? Ha ha.

west ridge of Mt Conness just outside of Tuolumne

Same deal as Cathedral, its called 5.6, but as its even easier technically than Cathedral I'd say 5.5 is fair.

East face of Mt Whitney. Its called 5.4 in the 50 classic climbs book. Of course most call it 5.7 or so now. But the only reason it might feel 5.7 is because you are climbing at 14k feet.

Otherwise its kind of hard to name great 5.5 climbs. There are plenty out there, but they might just be called 4th class.

The Larry wrote: :-) Mt Stuart's upper north ridge is 5.4 and one of the fitty clustered climbs in norf merica.

I'd like to vote for Gunsight to South Peak Direct at Seneca, but I've seen it in some guides as 5.4, and others as 5.5.

If Gunsight doesn't count, I'd like to vote for P1 of Middle Earth at the Gunks.

Chad Wagner wrote:How bout Kain Route, Bugaboo Spire, B.C.

First thought was Horseman at the Gunks for me too. Frog's head is also good, but some people say that's a 5.6. It does have a bit of spice at the beginning, but it a lot longer than Horseman. Still, you can run it out in one pitch with a 70m.

Aaron O wrote:White maiden's walkway at Tahquitz. It's 5.4, but it is also 5 classic rope-stretcher pitches of great climbing.

Tenaya Peak in Tuolumne

Fandango on the First Flatiron

But for one pitch of 5.6 at the top, The Daddy at Linville Gorge.

Horseman is certainly an awesome 5.5, but alas, only 1 pitch. Little Finger on Roger's Rock gets my vote- totally unique with a kayak approach and spectacular position over Lake George.

5.4 - but super fun

Peek-a-boo

Upper Refuse, Cathedral Ledge, NH

Any of the classic 5.6 routes in Red Rocks (grades are soft).

5.4 but Gelsa at the Gunks...3rd pitch is high quality!

Left Ski Track at Tahquitz is up there...I think it's 5.6 now, but it was 5.5 in the old Wilts guide.

grayhghost wrote:A tad bit harder Wolf's Head

How about Hawk (Trapps)? That second pitch will get your attention.

Anyone who can climb 5.5 can climb 5.6, so I'll add After Six in the Valley.