All Locations >
International
> N America
> Canada
> British Columbia
> Squamish
> Stawamus Chief
> Dihedrals
Millenium Falcon
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.2 from 40 votes
Type: | Trad, 1000 ft (303 m), 14 pitches |
FA: | Kris Wild & co. |
Page Views: | 8,925 total · 47/month |
Shared By: | blakeherrington on Aug 18, 2008 |
Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: SIGNIFICANT ROCK FALL CLOSURES - UPDATED Feb 29th 2024
Details
For the most up-to-date information about closures in the Stawamus Chief Park, please refer to the following link: bcparks.ca/stawamus-chief-p…
The closures posted on this Mountain Project page are the latest according to the date mentioned above.
––––––––––
TRAIL TO THE PROW AND ECHELON WALL VIA THE SHERIFF'S BADGE CLOSURE
Due to a rockfall event on April 17, 2023, the approach/access trail to the Prow and Echelon wall via the Sheriff’s Badge have been impacted. Please stay out of this area until the full extent of this event has been determined.
Posted April 17, 2023
––––––––––
Due to multiple significant rockfalls in the North Wall, Slhanay, Grand Wall, and Western Dihedrals climbing areas of Stawamus Chief, a large number of climbing routes and bouldering areas are currently closed until further notice. Efforts are underway to assess and remove hazards in the hopes of opening some of these areas soon.
NORTH WALL CLOSURE
The following routes in this area remain closed until further notice due to a large rock fall event. All routes between Lunar Tide and Polaris on the upper Zodiac Wall, as well as all routes between Parallel Universe and Polaris on the Lower Zodiac Wall. The Climb known as Angel’s Crest is open, please be cautions on the approach and avoid the debris field to the left.
Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
GRAND WALL BOULDERS CLOSURE
Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following bouldering areas(and associated trails) remain closed until further notice. Lipsmack: Black Sabbath & Halfway Around the world, Octogon: Kemoslabby and Viper: Old and Serious, Beachcomber & Towlie.
Boudlering Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
WESTERN DIHEDRALS CLOSURE
Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following climbing routes between Teenage wasteland and Deadend Dihedral remain closed until further notice. Including: The Black Dyke, The Gauntlet, The Façade, Sticky Fingers, Sunset Strip, Millenium Falcon, Rutabaga, Turnip Arrowroot, and Europa.
Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
Updated June 30, 2023
The closures posted on this Mountain Project page are the latest according to the date mentioned above.
––––––––––
TRAIL TO THE PROW AND ECHELON WALL VIA THE SHERIFF'S BADGE CLOSURE
Due to a rockfall event on April 17, 2023, the approach/access trail to the Prow and Echelon wall via the Sheriff’s Badge have been impacted. Please stay out of this area until the full extent of this event has been determined.
Posted April 17, 2023
––––––––––
Due to multiple significant rockfalls in the North Wall, Slhanay, Grand Wall, and Western Dihedrals climbing areas of Stawamus Chief, a large number of climbing routes and bouldering areas are currently closed until further notice. Efforts are underway to assess and remove hazards in the hopes of opening some of these areas soon.
NORTH WALL CLOSURE
The following routes in this area remain closed until further notice due to a large rock fall event. All routes between Lunar Tide and Polaris on the upper Zodiac Wall, as well as all routes between Parallel Universe and Polaris on the Lower Zodiac Wall. The Climb known as Angel’s Crest is open, please be cautions on the approach and avoid the debris field to the left.
Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
GRAND WALL BOULDERS CLOSURE
Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following bouldering areas(and associated trails) remain closed until further notice. Lipsmack: Black Sabbath & Halfway Around the world, Octogon: Kemoslabby and Viper: Old and Serious, Beachcomber & Towlie.
Boudlering Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
WESTERN DIHEDRALS CLOSURE
Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following climbing routes between Teenage wasteland and Deadend Dihedral remain closed until further notice. Including: The Black Dyke, The Gauntlet, The Façade, Sticky Fingers, Sunset Strip, Millenium Falcon, Rutabaga, Turnip Arrowroot, and Europa.
Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
Updated June 30, 2023
Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Access Issue: Falcon nesting closures are usually in effect from March 15 to July 31.
Details
Falcon nesting closures are usually in effect from March 15 to July 31. See the BC parks website for more details: env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/explo…
From the BC Parks site:
Closed Climbs: Millennium Falcon, Sports Illustrated, Cloud Burst, Sea of Tranquility, Getting Down on the Brown, Supernaut, Clean Corner, Negro Lesbian, Crap Crags, Slow Dyke, Illusion, Planet Caravan, Warriors Wasteland, Freeway (above 5th pitch), The Big Slick, Brothers in Arms, Western Dihedral (4th pitch and above).
Open Climbs: Arrow Root, Cleaning the Brain, Deadend Dihedral, Rutabaga, Sticky Fingers, Slow Duck, Time Passages, Freeway (to the top of 5th pitch) and Western Dihedral (to the top of the 3rd pitch).
From the BC Parks site:
Closed Climbs: Millennium Falcon, Sports Illustrated, Cloud Burst, Sea of Tranquility, Getting Down on the Brown, Supernaut, Clean Corner, Negro Lesbian, Crap Crags, Slow Dyke, Illusion, Planet Caravan, Warriors Wasteland, Freeway (above 5th pitch), The Big Slick, Brothers in Arms, Western Dihedral (4th pitch and above).
Open Climbs: Arrow Root, Cleaning the Brain, Deadend Dihedral, Rutabaga, Sticky Fingers, Slow Duck, Time Passages, Freeway (to the top of 5th pitch) and Western Dihedral (to the top of the 3rd pitch).
Description
14 pitch route to the 1st (South) summit of the chief. A good mix of sport and trad climbing, with difficulties similar to those of the Grand Wall, except more 5.10+ climbing, tending towards the technical, with less strenuous laybacking. The shady nature of this route makes it a good hot-day choice.
P1) Follow dirty treed ramps up and right to move into a clean 5.8 chimney from it's bottom left side.
P2) Up thin left-facing corners and cracks, moving right to the belay. 5.10d
P3) Up the splitter crack (finger and ring locks) then left on delicate face holds, and into another thin crack which leads to a solitary bolt and a few hard face moves on the arete. 5.10d
P4) Sustained and technical arete climbing on all bolts. 5.11a
P5) Clean and fun chimney, with many opportunities for small gear. At ~5m up, step left out of the chimney and into a corner for a short stretch. 5.8
P6) Tricky moves around to the left quickly lead to a loose, blocky groove and easy climbing. 5.9
P7) Walk left on Trichome Ledge to the end, and begin with a technical crux sequence and mantle onto a horizontal footrail. Tiptoe across to the left, then follow great flakes and cracks up to belay. 5.10d
P8) Follow the steep corner crack to its end, at the trunk of the magical tree. From the tree, move up and then directly right to belay. This is a very good pitch, and likely the most strenuous of the route. It demands jamming in a variety of sizes. 5.10d
P9)From the right side of the belay ledge, follow the scenic arete for 30m, passing 3 bolts. Flakes and cracks are available for protection as well. 5.9
P10) Layback up the clean finger crack, then face climb to the base of the chimney. Getting in the chimney is not recommended. The moves between the two bolts can be protected with a blue alien out to the right side. The top of this pitch seemed hard for the grade. Ends at Bellygood Ledge (possible walkoff to the right). 5.10b
P11) Traverse left 30m from the last pitch, and find belay bolts near a fir tree. This pitch features 25m of high-quality face climbing on interesting holds. with only 4 bolts, it doesn't feel like a "sport pitch" but most difficult moves have bolts nearby. 5.10a
P12) Devious moves off the belay (I started way out right) lead up to several bolts and into a left-trending flake and crack system. Eventually step right around a small roof, and back left to the belay. 5.10c
P13) Follow the left of two bolted lines. Along a dike and past a small roof for 35m on all bolts. 5.11a
P14) Up left on easy dyke holds, and then back right again with increasing difficulty. Fully bolted. This is known as the "Gold Medal Ribbon". 5.11a/b
Note: An alternative P13 and P14 are just to the right. A bolted arching corner leading to a long rightward step-across. 5.10b - Move belay to far right edge of ledge - Up the long sustained finger crack. Somewhat licheny, but a very good pitch. 5.10c
From either ending, the walkoff trail is reached by heading up and left across a slab and into the woods.
P1) Follow dirty treed ramps up and right to move into a clean 5.8 chimney from it's bottom left side.
P2) Up thin left-facing corners and cracks, moving right to the belay. 5.10d
P3) Up the splitter crack (finger and ring locks) then left on delicate face holds, and into another thin crack which leads to a solitary bolt and a few hard face moves on the arete. 5.10d
P4) Sustained and technical arete climbing on all bolts. 5.11a
P5) Clean and fun chimney, with many opportunities for small gear. At ~5m up, step left out of the chimney and into a corner for a short stretch. 5.8
P6) Tricky moves around to the left quickly lead to a loose, blocky groove and easy climbing. 5.9
P7) Walk left on Trichome Ledge to the end, and begin with a technical crux sequence and mantle onto a horizontal footrail. Tiptoe across to the left, then follow great flakes and cracks up to belay. 5.10d
P8) Follow the steep corner crack to its end, at the trunk of the magical tree. From the tree, move up and then directly right to belay. This is a very good pitch, and likely the most strenuous of the route. It demands jamming in a variety of sizes. 5.10d
P9)From the right side of the belay ledge, follow the scenic arete for 30m, passing 3 bolts. Flakes and cracks are available for protection as well. 5.9
P10) Layback up the clean finger crack, then face climb to the base of the chimney. Getting in the chimney is not recommended. The moves between the two bolts can be protected with a blue alien out to the right side. The top of this pitch seemed hard for the grade. Ends at Bellygood Ledge (possible walkoff to the right). 5.10b
P11) Traverse left 30m from the last pitch, and find belay bolts near a fir tree. This pitch features 25m of high-quality face climbing on interesting holds. with only 4 bolts, it doesn't feel like a "sport pitch" but most difficult moves have bolts nearby. 5.10a
P12) Devious moves off the belay (I started way out right) lead up to several bolts and into a left-trending flake and crack system. Eventually step right around a small roof, and back left to the belay. 5.10c
P13) Follow the left of two bolted lines. Along a dike and past a small roof for 35m on all bolts. 5.11a
P14) Up left on easy dyke holds, and then back right again with increasing difficulty. Fully bolted. This is known as the "Gold Medal Ribbon". 5.11a/b
Note: An alternative P13 and P14 are just to the right. A bolted arching corner leading to a long rightward step-across. 5.10b - Move belay to far right edge of ledge - Up the long sustained finger crack. Somewhat licheny, but a very good pitch. 5.10c
From either ending, the walkoff trail is reached by heading up and left across a slab and into the woods.
10 Comments