Trad Climbing Shoe

Five ten hueco. Way better at edging than a mythos. But it fits differently. You ultimately want a good fit over any other consideration for an all day trad shoe, especially if you are on moderate climbs.

Auto-X Fil wrote: FYI, you can edit your post to clear up confusion. Muiras certainly do edge. They are not the gold standard in edging shoes, but are quite solid when sized tight. The Vibram rubber on them does NOT like granite as much as Five Ten rubber, and I probably wouldn't pick them for a granite-only shoe (at least Squamish granite, which I hear is a lot like the Valley). My Muiras are sized snug but not insane (sized down 2 full sizes from my street shoes), and they climb cracks acceptably and edge quite well. They are my go-to shoe for cragging, but I couldn't wear them all day sized like that.

i use miuras and katanas on squamish granite ... so do tons of people here ... in fact the guy at climb on said hes been selling tons since those honnold solo videos show him wearing it came out ;)

on hot granite in the sun, stealth rubber literally just slides on slab i find ...

note that mister ex beth rodden aka tommy caldwell uses them in the valley granite on his 5.13+ endeavors ....

IMO, the best trad shoes were the Acopa Merlins, sized to where my toes were not curled. Sadly they are next to impossible to find.
The most important thing I have found when buying trad shoes is to size them correctly. If you toes are the slightest bit curled you are going to have a bad time climbing hundreds of feet of crack. Second is fit, try to buy the shoe that matches the shape of your foot, has no pressure points and/or dead space air pockets.
Shoe salesmen will hate me for this, but I suggest trying on every pair of shoes you can in at least a few different sizes. I start with my street shoe size and go from there depending on what I'm looking for in the shoe.
Here are some of my favorite trad shoes:
Spectre
Pontas
Katana
Mocasym
Mythos (but the laces blow out quick and relacing them is lame)
Anasazi Lace Ups (best edging trad shoe i found, but far from the best fit for my foot shape)
madrock maniac and the mugen were OK as well

thecornyman wrote:The newest Climbing Mag has a section on the best new crack shoes. Personally I think climb cracks in mythos sized a full size larger than my miuras. Miuras are for single pitch and gym. Mythos are for crack and all day. The long laces are a pain on the mythos and I'm hoping the new laces I just got will last a little longer.

Most of the hard big wallers use Miuras for full day trad free climbing. I'm also glad John L. looked over his post; I own Evolv Shamans and I know good edging shoes.

I use katana lace's and TC pros depending on what the climb is like.

Auto-X Fil wrote: Muiras certainly do edge.

I disagree, but it's all subjective anyway. My experience with two pairs of miura lace's has been they edge well right out of the box, then after the break in they become horribly loose (even after I size down 2 sizes). I also don't like the Vibram rubber, but that's at totally different topic.

I've been pretty happy with my Scarpa Technos and they come in something other than Barney purple.

Brian Scoggins wrote:This really bears repeating: If you think the Mythos are a good edging shoe, you've never done ANY hard edging.

This is what I thought, but why the heck is this guy wearing them?!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O6iW2xAVeCs&feature=fvwp&NR=1

I think honestly the shoes are all the same. The climber's skill depends on how well the shoe performs. This coming from a shoe snob.

Saw a pic of him free climbing Zodiac on El Cap in mythos.

shuminW wrote: How hard is the route? I see it mentioned as 6c (11a?) somewhere. If that's true, I imagine mythos would do the job admirably (besides it looks like a lot of smearing on rough rock with a few jams, not thin edging). Edit: the helmet is kind of funny.

I can't hear the video well but I thought I heard it was 7+.

EDIT: Actually I realize that's what I assumed from the VII+ when the route name is displayed. I am not sure if that is the grade.

Phil Lauffen wrote: I can't hear the video well but I thought I heard it was 7+. EDIT: Actually I realize that's what I assumed from the VII+ when the route name is displayed. I am not sure if that is the grade.

UIAA VII+ is around 11A YDS

Highlander wrote: UIAA VII+ is around 11A YDS

Ah thanks.

Willa wrote:What in the world is a "trad shoe"? The type of protection you use shouldn't dictate shoe choice.

Its the type of shoe you wear ground up, onsight, placing your own protection. Once you start working the moves you have to change into your sport shoes.

Phil Lauffen wrote: Its the type of shoe you wear ground up, onsight, placing your own protection. Once you start working the moves you have to change into your sport shoes.

So I cant wear my sport shoes when I go ground up, onsite, placing my own draws on a sport route? what about a mixed line?

Ian Cavanaugh wrote: So I cant wear my sport shoes when I go ground up, onsite, placing my own draws on a sport route? what about a mixed line?

Nope, not allowed. For mixed climb onsights you have to have your sport shoes on when you are protected by a bolt, then switch back to trad shoes when you place a piece, then switch back to your sport shoes when you clip a bolt, etc., etc.

Of course, if you are working a mixed line as a project then you can wear your sport shoes the entire time because you have the gear dialed.

I watched a guy take 3rd at an ABS sectional (regional? first place was Daniel Woods) in Mythos. Of course, he's also got a 5.13+/5.14- crack FA to his name, so that might figure in. Mostly, I don't think a shoe has great edging power unless it can consistently stand on around 1/8" edges without too much issue. Above that and just about any shoe will do, and "edging power" is more an issue of technique than shoe performance.

Buy my shoes :)

If you are 7.5

I have Boreal Ballets no doubt a "trad" shoe new at $60
they will take 10 resoles

Or my Acopa Merlins also 7.5 for only $40 new 1/2 soles and new toes

Or the ultra classic "trad" shoe my Sportiva Megas new for only $50.00

As for me I love the Vector,(and the Ninja was also great for finger cracks) no longer made, I think I remember seeing Lynn Hill in these doin the Nose roof.