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 ADVANCED
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Leading up & around the towers.
Nearing the top of the gully that skirts the Black Towers.
»
from Brian Webster (Canadian Mountain Guide): When <br />traversing left on the large snow slope (after topping out on the Big Step) <br />you will encounter an obvious rock pinnacle that originates from the snow <br />slope and is about 10 metres high. (If you are traversing the snow slope <br />near the top, close to the moat, you would bump into this pinnacle.) The <br />exit gully is just on the other side of the pinnacle, but  most climbers <br />scramble up between the pinnacle and the main wall (you can create a belay <br />by slinging the top of the pinnacle). From here climb loose rock up and <br />left so as to merge into the exit gully higher up. It is about 5 pitches of <br />loose 5.4ish rock and/or snow and ice climbing to reach the summit ridge.
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By Jordan Ramey
From: Calgary, Alberta
Aug 30, 2011

The correct gully has a few pin/tat belay stations, slung pinnacles, a couple of new shiny (lead?) bolts and is thus easy to make sure you are in the correct gully. If it's hard, you're probably off route.

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from Brian Webster (Canadian Mountain Guide): When
traversing left on the large snow slope (after topping out on the Big Step)
you will encounter an obvious rock pinnacle that originates from the snow
slope and is about 10 metres high. (If you are traversing the snow slope
near the top, close to the moat, you would bump into this pinnacle.) The
exit gully is just on the other side of the pinnacle, but most climbers
scramble up between the pinnacle and the main wall (you can create a belay
by slinging the top of the pinnacle). From here climb loose rock up and
left so as to merge into the exit gully higher up. It is about 5 pitches of
loose 5.4ish rock and/or snow and ice climbing to reach the summit ridge.

Submitted By: Jordan Ramey on Aug 30, 2011
On this route:
East Ridge (5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Mod. Snow PG13 )
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