Yarp
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Aug 26, 2011
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jan 2011
· Points: 0
Brian in SLC wrote:Give it a strong tug when you find a secure placement, and, if walking might be an issue, sling it long. If its set hard, sometimes that's enough to keep it from moving.
Setting cams?
ummmmmm OK?
I'm gonna go ahead and assume that was a joke and you don't really have that poor of an understanding of how cams work.
Gunkiemike wrote: I don't believe there is any proof of this. Certainly there's nothing about the physics of torque and outward pressure due to the springs to support it. As with Tricams, you place the unit whichever way makes best use of the irregularities of the placement.
Metolius recommends placing the outside lobes on the bottom in their cam manual (Figure 11). I suspect that it is to minimize the lever arm of the downward component of the force applied to the U stem.
Yarp wrote: Setting cams? ummmmmm OK? I'm gonna go ahead and assume that was a joke and you don't really have that poor of an understanding of how cams work.
Get a clue, sprayer.
Yarp
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Aug 26, 2011
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jan 2011
· Points: 0
To answer the OP the best way to learn is to do it a ton. Like if you have some time at the crag try placing them, all diferent sizes in various ways, tipped out to tight. You'll see that placing them in pods, constricting above and below, is about ideal. perfectly parallel or flaring is more dicey. The culprit is rope drag, sling em if you can. I find in the east that the cracks are not prone to walking cams (at least the easy ones I climb), but the cam will just rotate and still be bomber.
slim
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Aug 29, 2011
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Dec 2004
· Points: 1,103
rgold had a really good point, sometimes you need to place an oppositional piece to restrict it from rotating. this is really key if the placement is essential to your safety and is tweaky. not nearly enough people do/think about this.
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