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The Exfoliator
5.11a/b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 1.8 from 16
votes
Routes in White Cliff
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Ain't Misbehavin' S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Big Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Blitz Girls T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Blow All My Troubles Away S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cool Colorado Rain S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Czech Cashing S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Dirty Blonde S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Easy Redhead S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Exfoliator, The S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Funky Gunky S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hard Monkey S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Little Di T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Overhangutang S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Parallel Universe S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rolling in Your Arms S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Rufies S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Water Groove T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Wild Geese In the West S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Zebra S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Sport, 75 ft (23 m) |
| FA: | Rob Griz, Brian Pappas, Elias Martos |
| Page Views: | 3,901 total · 24/month |
| Shared By: | Rob Griz on Oct 4, 2010 |
| Admins: | Joey Chicharrones, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
The Exfoliator follows the massive, inside, overhanging arete on White Cliff. Begin at the steep base of the arete (get the first high bolt by stemming off the slab) and let the pump begin. First crux is between bolts 1 and 2. Follow the overhanging face passing the blunt arete (2nd crux) to the roof. Stem wide, pull the roof, and run it up on easy slab incuts to the chain anchor. Two rests are possible by pulling over the arete on stances. Sustained and super enjoyable, don't let it Exfoliate you!
Due to the proximity of the slab below, if you were to fall in the first half of the route, you will come close to the slab, have an alert belayer! If you are a 2nd, cleaning the route, you could swing down into the slab, again, have an alert belayer. This route is NOT recommended to toprope, you may crater into the slab, guaranteed. As the route name suggests, there is a lot of flakey stuff on the route, much of which I'd like to think I've cleaned. Some remains. The fin of rock between bolts 3-4 is pretty solid, yet still a fin. Climb through this with some care.
Due to the proximity of the slab below, if you were to fall in the first half of the route, you will come close to the slab, have an alert belayer! If you are a 2nd, cleaning the route, you could swing down into the slab, again, have an alert belayer. This route is NOT recommended to toprope, you may crater into the slab, guaranteed. As the route name suggests, there is a lot of flakey stuff on the route, much of which I'd like to think I've cleaned. Some remains. The fin of rock between bolts 3-4 is pretty solid, yet still a fin. Climb through this with some care.
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